The elec. dryer won’t turn off at the end of the cool-down cycle. I assumed the timer to be the problem so bought a brand new one and tried it out. Still doing the same thing. Soooo I checked out the resister in the 4-prong thermo switch which should reed between 5400 to 8600 ohms. I’m getting a good 7000 ohms. I checked mall other thermal temp controllers and all are good. The start resister is also good.Everything works good up until it’s suppose to click to the off position on the timer but not even the new timer will turn off. What are the chances of a new timer doing the same thing ?? Or is the problem something I’ve missed?
Jimmyds.
First off, I need a model number. Then I can look up the wiring diagram and I might be able to help you. I doubt very much that both timers would be doing the exact same thing. Have you checked for 120 volts going to the timer motor? That is the first thing I always do with this type of problem.
— Begin quote from ThatGuy;254780
First off, I need a model number. Then I can look up the wiring diagram and I might be able to help you. I doubt very much that both timers would be doing the exact same thing. Have you checked for 120 volts going to the timer motor? That is the first thing I always do with this type of problem.
— End quote
The timer works through the cycle but stops at the end of the cool down mode and won’t turn off. This means there is power to the timer. I will wire it directly to 110 volts to see if it will cycle off completely. But first I have to go pick it up . It just arrived. Jimmyds:)
I now have the third Timer but I have connected 110v. to the original timer. It runs continuously while off the dryer on the bench test.I guess its not ever suppose to stop as long as its got 110 to it on the bench.What causes it to come to the end of it’s cycle and not stop while on the dryer?
— Begin quote from ThatGuy;254780
First off, I need a model number. Then I can look up the wiring diagram and I might be able to help you. I doubt very much that both timers would be doing the exact same thing. Have you checked for 120 volts going to the timer motor? That is the first thing I always do with this type of problem.
— End quote
Model #:WED5300SQO
SER #:MU3083532
jIMMYDS
Heres the wiring diagram http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech_Sheet_12_23_2009/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%208576793.pdf
It looks pretty simple, but for some reason you are loosing power to the timer motor in the "cool down" part of the cycle. I wonder about the temperature selector switch.
— Begin quote from ThatGuy;254857
Heres the wiring diagram http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech_Sheet_12_23_2009/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%208576793.pdf
It looks pretty simple, but for some reason you are loosing power to the timer motor in the "cool down" part of the cycle. I wonder about the temperature selector switch.
— End quote
This dryer doesn’t have a temp.selector switch,buzzer,or light.
Here is more info: The timer doesn’t run in any position on the dial.You can put it in any position on the dial and start but it will not cycle at all .If I put it on ‘very hot’ or fluff it will continue all day fluffing or heating and the timer won’t run. It will only run on the first cycle at the top of the dial.This is the longest running mode on the dryer.This mode is where the timer motor does run once its started, but when it gets to the end of this on the cool down part the timer power is interrupted losses it’s power and the timer motor won’t advance further to turn the dryer off and the dryer runs continously just like it does on ALL other places on the dial.
PS: This is the third timer since yesterday.(The original one and two new ones all do the same thing.) I don’t believe it’s the timer but don’t know what else it could be.
What is the part number of the original timer and what are the part numbers of the replacement timers? Could you provide a good picture of the timer with all the wires on it?
— Begin quote from ThatGuy;254958
What is the part number of the original timer and what are the part numbers of the replacement timers? Could you provide a good picture of the timer with all the wires on it?
— End quote
NO PICTURES BUT ALL TIMERS ARE THE SAME #'s.Model m460-g Item#8299778 FSP Assembled in MEXICO :o
OK, pull up the wiring diagram or if you have the one from the dryer thats fine. In the center of the diagram you will see "timer switch 0" one side has "tm" the other can be "or" or "bw"
Starting at the timer, you need to find out if the "bw" wire is intact all the way back to "1m" on the motor. It should also have continuity to the one terminal on the heating element. "or" should have continuity all the way to the other side of the heating element. Also check and see if the heating element is shorted to the shell. "tm" should have continuity to the terminal block black wire on the back of the dryer.
Something inside your dryer has either made or broken a circuit and we need to find out what it is.
— Begin quote from ThatGuy;254999
OK, pull up the wiring diagram or if you have the one from the dryer thats fine. In the center of the diagram you will see "timer switch 0" one side has "tm" the other can be "or" or "bw"
Starting at the timer, you need to find out if the "bw" wire is intact all the way back to "1m" on the motor. It should also have continuity to the one terminal on the heating element. "or" should have continuity all the way to the other side of the heating element. Also check and see if the heating element is shorted to the shell. "tm" should have continuity to the terminal block black wire on the back of the dryer.
Something inside your dryer has either made or broken a circuit and we need to find out what it is.
— End quote
OK:First ,even though it shows 7000 ohms I’m going to replace the 4 wire resister thermal switch an see if it’s causing the problem. I’ll get back with you on this hopefully today.Thanks
I kind of doubt that the switch is causing this, I’m thinking broken wire or bad splice at this time. Or maybe a bad crimp on a terminal.
— Begin quote from ThatGuy;255484
I kind of doubt that the switch is causing this, I’m thinking broken wire or bad splice at this time. Or maybe a bad crimp on a terminal.
— End quote
The problem was that someone replaced the high heat thermostat with a kit that comes with both thermostats and the original one that is next to the heating coils was the problem.If bought separately it has 3 wire hook-up. If bought in the kit form with both thermostats it don’t. The one in the paired kit is a two prong unit and you have to take the spare parts that come with it to rig up a place for the orange wire to fit on. Someone had left off the orange wire and taped it up to be unseen and unused. With only the two red wires on the thermostat it would not allow the timer to run in all automatic modes nor the end of the timed mode once it gets to the cool-down at the end of the cycle.I found this out by simply untapping the orange wire and touching it to the heater coil side of the 2-wire thermostat and the timer then started running and soon the dryer turned off.I want to Radio shack and bought their brass wire end connector kit that is used to piggyback several speakers in a series.You get several brass fittings of the type that allow you to connect two wires onto a single terminal.This allowed me to add the orange wire but I did have to grind down the width if the terminal I used to allow the narrower orange connector to push onto it.You could file it too.Or cut off the wire-end of the orange wire and crimp on one of the same width of the red wire that connects to the same terminal.This is the kind of thing that happens when you work on something that you thought was stock and untouched by someone else.I saw that the orange wire had to be used by the wiring diagram that came with the machine.JDY no reply necessary.Thanks