Dryer not heating

Dryer Repair
,
1

The dryer that was working for the past few days has decided to stop heating and we cant figure out why.

Other info:
Electric Dryer model gler331as2
The dryer has been in storage for a while. This is the first time being used in this house. Was working fine this weekend.

What we have tried:
Vacuuming the lint trap, opening the back panel and vacuuming that as well. Was light lint, nothing horrendous. Took off the vent, metal and not kinked, and found a huge clog in the wall. Ran the dryer un-hooked to the vent tube for 10min and still no heat. Flipped the breaker a few times, no heat.

We are at a loss as to what to try now. My fiance is not electrically-minded and we have no electrical tools. Is this an easy fix or do we need to hire someone?

Thanks in Advance!

3

You have to have a simple multimeter to test a few parts. If he knows how to handle a simple tools, this job is not going to be very hard for him. Let us know when he is ready.

Gene.

4

We tried it on a timed cycle and the dryer heats up, but not on the sensor-dry setting. Is this a simple fix, a sensor to replace?

5

Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=gler331as2

Here is a wiring diagram
ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Webster/134054800.pdf

Can you control the temperature in timed dry?
Also does the timer advance in auto cycles?
If yes the odds are high that the problem is the timer.
Timer contacts A (ORG orange) to B (RED) are not closing in auto cycles.

Could be the CONTROL THERMOSTAT but this is the same for both timed and auto cycles.

As Gene stated the only way to tell for sure is with a meter.
Unplug the unit
Put the timer half way in an auto cycle
Open up the console
Remove the A (ORG orange) wire from the timer
Measure for continuity from this timer connection to B (RED) connection.
Should be 0 ohms.
If not re: open (infinite ohms)
Move the timer to mid way timed dry
Measure the above again
If it is now 0 ohms
The timer is shot, for sure.

I would suggest you purchase a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity

  1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
  2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
  3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.