F25 error and parts question

[acallao]

Got F25 error in diagnostic mode.

Bought part AP3951297 (8577891) THRMST-FIX to replace.

Still did not work. Opened up dryer again and looked at heating element.

Turns out a bra wire was shorting out the heating element (no idea how that got in there). Slight blackening of heating element area but still operational.

Removed wire and retested. Still got F25 error. I think I shorted out the new high limit thermostat that I inserted before I discovered the short of the heating element.

So I’m off to order a new part again. Here is my question. I am looking at the [AP3094244](http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3094244"]Dryer thermal cut-off kit[/URL] Part Number: [URL="http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3094244) which includes a high limit themostat. However, it is missing one connection that AP3951297 THRMST-FIX has. It is a plastic black connection that can be seen in the photo of the part. What is that and how important is it to dryer operation?

Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

[Joe_APP_Team]

— Begin quote from acallao;415194

Got F25 error in diagnostic mode.

Bought part AP3951297 (8577891) THRMST-FIX to replace.

Still did not work. Opened up dryer again and looked at heating element.

Turns out a bra wire was shorting out the heating element (no idea how that got in there). Slight blackening of heating element area but still operational.

Removed wire and retested. Still got F25 error. I think I shorted out the new high limit thermostat that I inserted before I discovered the short of the heating element.

So I’m off to order a new part again. Here is my question. I am looking at the [AP3094244](http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3094244"]Dryer thermal cut-off kit[/URL] Part Number: [URL="http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3094244) which includes a high limit themostat. However, it is missing one connection that AP3951297 THRMST-FIX has. It is a plastic black connection that can be seen in the photo of the part. What is that and how important is it to dryer operation?

Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

— End quote

Acallao,

The thermal cut-off kit,

[part]AP3094244[/part]

Would be your best bet, you’ll have everything you need and instructions for the proper installation of the part.

Expect to have a problem with the heater element, soon. The element doesn’t react well to shorts,of any kind, they develop a weak spot, and fail in a short period of time.

[part]AP3094254[/part]

Good Luck,

[acallao]

Thanks for your prompt reply.

So if I go with the kit, the hi limit thermostat doesn’t have the black plug like the part that is linked to below (second image on left side of part).

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3951297

So I will have a dangling connection from the dryer that wants to connect to that connector on the current hi limit thermostat.

Is that ok or is that dangerous for dryer operations?

[Joe_APP_Team]

— Begin quote from acallao;415262

Thanks for your prompt reply.

So if I go with the kit, the hi limit thermostat doesn’t have the black plug like the part that is linked to below (second image on left side of part).

Part Details - WHIRLPOOL THRMST-FIX, part number: AP3951297

So I will have a dangling connection from the dryer that wants to connect to that connector on the current hi limit thermostat.

Is that ok or is that dangerous for dryer operations?

— End quote

No,it doesn’t work that way,

The kit comes with the thermal fuse and a "new"style hi limit thermostat, the instruction sheet will tell you how to make the connections, so there are no loose wires, when you’re done.

[acallao]

Great, that’s what I needed to know. Thanks for the help, I’ll post how everything turns out.

[Joe_APP_Team]

— Begin quote from acallao;415311

Great, that’s what I needed to know. Thanks for the help, I’ll post how everything turns out.

— End quote

Great,

Yes, please give us an update with what you find and any repair procedures you may have found more helpful, It’ll come in handy for future reference on the Repair Forum.

[acallao]

Replaced heating element and inlet thermistor. Still getting F25 error. Also replaced thermal cut off.

What am I missing here? Do any of the connections on the inlet side have polarity that I may have reversed on reassembly?

I was reading the tech sheet and another option was the wire harness is either open or shorted. Machine control electronics?

Any other thoughts or ideas?

[acallao]

Will check with multimeter and if not I will order the board. Thanks again for the input.

[Joe_APP_Team]

— Begin quote from acallao;421253

Will check with multimeter and if not I will order the board. Thanks again for the input.

— End quote

Acallao,

OK, thats what/how it works out from the wiring diagram and the F25 code.

Let us know how you do.

[acallao]

Finally got back into town and was able to check (P4 pin1 and P4 pin2) on the wire harness. Multimeter read 68.7 k ohms at 66 degrees F (digital house thermostat temp). Is that too high a resistance?

I also included a picture of the pins from P4. It looks like there is a black ring between the wire and the wire casing for pin1 and pin2. P4 Pin4 and pin6 don’t have any black. Is that normal?

So based on the resistance reading on P4 pin1 and pin2, does the wire harness need to be rewired (P4) or the machine control board need to be replaced?

Thanks for the advice.

[Joe_APP_Team]

— Begin quote from acallao;435492

Finally got back into town and was able to check (P4 pin1 and P4 pin2) on the wire harness. Multimeter read 68.7 k ohms at 66 degrees F (digital house thermostat temp). Is that too high a resistance?

I also included a picture of the pins from P4. It looks like there is a black ring between the wire and the wire casing for pin1 and pin2. P4 Pin4 and pin6 don’t have any black. Is that normal?

So based on the resistance reading on P4 pin1 and pin2, does the wire harness need to be rewired (P4) or the machine control board need to be replaced?

Thanks for the advice.

— End quote

Acallao,

Your "inlet thermistor is in range for the temperature you supplied, so it’s OK as is the wiring. you may as well test the outlet thermistor at the same temperature it should read 13 to 16 ohms (P4pin 3 to P4pin6) resistance.

If that checks out OK, replace the control board.

Good Luck,

[acallao]

Verified outlet thermistor good at 14.24 k ohms.

Replaced machine control board. No more F25 error. When I enter diagnostic mode, all I get is generic 88. No fault codes.

However, dryer doesn’t start when you hit start button. I went through the entire diagnostic tests [console buttons and indicators (good), door switch (good), moisture sensor (good), motor (motor did not turn) heater console ID (C5), inlet air flow (99, more), and line voltage (22-23, less).

Also did the manual load test, the LEDs flashed appropriately, but the motor did not turn.

So looking at Test #3 drive motor circuit, looks like my options that need to be checked are thermal fuse, drum belt, belt switch, and motor.

Any thoughts on my next course of action?

[Joe_APP_Team]

— Begin quote from acallao;441124

Verified outlet thermistor good at 14.24 k ohms.

Replaced machine control board. No more F25 error. When I enter diagnostic mode, all I get is generic 88. No fault codes.

However, dryer doesn’t start when you hit start button. I went through the entire diagnostic tests [console buttons and indicators (good), door switch (good), moisture sensor (good), motor (motor did not turn) heater console ID (C5), inlet air flow (99, more), and line voltage (22-23, less).

Also did the manual load test, the LEDs flashed appropriately, but the motor did not turn.

So looking at Test #3 drive motor circuit, looks like my options that need to be checked are thermal fuse, drum belt, belt switch, and motor.

Any thoughts on my next course of action?

— End quote

Acallao,

Are you sure this dryer didn’t overheat ? or have any shorted wires to the heater or thermostats. I’m just wanderring.

But you’re on the right track, an open thermal fuse,or belt switch, would keep the motor from running. You’ll know about the belt as soon as you get the frnt panel off, it’s usually piled up in the corner.

You’ll need to check the fuse for a closed circuit(make sure you remove the wires) with the meter you have.

The belt switch will also be a closed circuit, as long as the belt is on the pulley or you position the idler assembly as if the belt was installed, occasionally I would find the wires broken or loose on the switch, so make sure the wires are OK as well.

[acallao]

Overheat as in burning out the motor? Dryer hasn’t run since I started posting. I did find a bra wire across the heating elements earlier, but I replaced the heating element as well as all parts on the inlet side.

I’ll start checking those things and hopefully something will jump out at me.

Thanks for the advice.

[Joe_APP_Team]

— Begin quote from acallao;441347

Overheat as in burning out the motor? Dryer hasn’t run since I started posting. I did find a bra wire across the heating elements earlier, but I replaced the heating element as well as all parts on the inlet side.

I’ll start checking those things and hopefully something will jump out at me.

Thanks for the advice.

— End quote

I forgot about the wire bra stay, I have a feeling your going to find the thermal fuse is an open circuit, because the dryer overheated and damaged the thermistor and thermal fuse on the blower housing.

[acallao]

Looks like the thermal fuse was open. I can’t seem to find the part in the bulkhead listing. Would you know what it would be?

[Joe_APP_Team]

— Begin quote from acallao;468812

Looks like the thermal fuse was open. I can’t seem to find the part in the bulkhead listing. Would you know what it would be?

— End quote

Acallao,

I see the problem, I couldn’t find it either. but it is listed in the wiring diagram.

The heater thermal fuse, should have been included in the thermostat kit you already orderred.

The other(motor circuit) thermal fuse, is located on the blower housing or the heater inlet tube, on the back of the unit, and should look like this,

[part]AP3132867[/part]

Good Luck,

[acallao]

Replaced the thermal fuse and I am finally back in business. Motor turned over and heat was being produced. Thanks for all your help!