After setting the timer to dry for 60 minutes, it turned for about 30-40 mins and then it stopped turning, causing the dryer continue to heat (the dial stays at the position 10-20 minutes before ending). Do I need to replace the timer or to clean it up? I read somewhere that the moisture sensor may be dirty. If so, where is that sensor and what an effective way to clean it?
Thanks!
Edit: I found the post. It was from denman in this same forum.
Hi Denman, if you are reading this post, could you point/show me where the two metal strips are, I’d appreciate it very much. TIA!
denman’s original post is the third post in the link below.
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dryer-repair/196655-timer-does-not-turn-off-end-permanent-press-cycle.html
Ah, it is timed, not auto dried.
Is replacing the timer the only way to fix it? The timer is about $40 (used on ********) and I am wondering if the dryer worth this investment since it is 14 years old.
Thank you!
Well, your dryer has both timed and auto dry cycles. If you only use timed dry, then you could jump timer terminals TM to X and that should fix the problem but then it won’t work properly in auto dry cycle.
Eric
When you said jump, you meant to connect. TM with X, right ? I am not very good at DIY but I can fix some computers :). Is this a difficult fix? Thanks a lot!
Unplug the dryer and open the control panel. If you do not intend on using auto dry cycle and only use timed dry or knit cycle, remove the resistor that is connected between terminals TM and R. Disconnect the terminal with two tan wires from terminal X and plug it into terminal TM where you removed the resistor. Run the dryer. If the problem still occurs then the problem with the timer is mechanical (inside timer) and timer would have to be replaced.
Eric
Thanks Eric.
I opened up the control panel. I don’t see anything connected to the TM terminal. The two tan wires already connected to the X terminal. X and TM seem to be linked at the base. I don’t see a resister between TM and R because TM terminal is left open.
I did find a resistor on the other side connecting M and U, maybe they are unrelated.
I attached two images about the timer.
The resistor is the jumper between terminal R and TM. This is the difficulty of trying to do this over an internet forum. Remove the white jumper wire between R and TM. Terminal X and TM are not the same, terminal TM is the one on the right in your photo. R has two terminals, X has two terminals, TM has two terminals. After removing the jumper, move the tan wires terminal from X to TM and see if that fixes your problem. The other resistor has to do with heat selection. Don’t mess with it.
Eric
Ah, now I got you. Each terminal has two pins. I misunderstood the markings before you explained it. Now I have the wired reconnected as you described. Could you double check what I did in the attached picture. I left the white resister wire hanging right now (one end still on R). I will use electric tape to wrap it up before putting the timer back. Terminal X has no connections anymore.
I don’t want to mess it up. It is ok that this doesn’t fix it, but I don’t want it to cause a fire or some other disaster :-). If it doesn’t take too long to explain, could tell me why this change will fix it?
BTW, I don’t see how it will do auto cycle, so we have been using timed cycle all these years.
Thanks again!
Qing
Yes, that is correct but I would just remove the jumper resistor entirely as that free hanging terminal on the unconnected end will have 120vac on it when dryer is running. By moving the tan wires to terminal TM we are bypassing the internal timer contact that provides constant power to the timer motor when in timed dry cycle. Apparently, that contact is opening at some point as the timer advances. It should stay closed all during the timed dry cycle. Why do you say you don’t see how it will do auto cycle?
Eric
Sure, I will remove the resistor wire from R as well.
Just to recap our goal here. The original problem was that in timed mode (heavy cycle), the dryer will start from a set time (say 60 mins) and move down to about 20 mins and stuck there, leaving the dryer on forever without human intervention. This change will fix it so that the dial will move from 60 to 0 as expected and stop the dryer at the end, right?
Sorry I sounded repetitive about these questions because I really don’t know what I am doing with these wiring on high voltage circuits.
I am not clear on your last question. I only found the timer dial has 3 sections, heavy, medium and light. But they are all timed. I don’t see an auto cycle or how to use it :-). Maybe I have been stupid for all these years :-).
Thanks again!
Oh, I just looked at the dial setting again. The medium cycle is actually the auto cycle, right? We have never use it, LOL.
So this change will stop the medium (auto cycle) from working properly and allow the heavy cycle to work (and complete it), right? What would happen if someone accidentally uses the auto cycle with this change?
Thanks!
Show me a photo of the front of your control panel detailing the timer. This may fix the problem but not if it is being caused by a mechanical problem within the timer. The timer motor drives a drum inside the timer that has multiple cams on it that operate multiple sets of contacts to operate the dryer in a specific sequence of operations. There is a reduction gear assembly within the timer motor which could be causing the problem. Do you have a multimeter? If so, check the resistance of the jumper resistor. It should read about 4400 ohms.
Eric
Here is a picture of the dial surrounding.
I used a multi-meter to measure the resistor cable. It measured 4.38 X 2000K. I am not completely sure about the setting 2000K printed on the device. Does it mean 1000K or 2000K? From your suggested value, it seems it should be 4.38 * 1000.
Sorry, the setting is 20K X 4.38. Seems much larger than you mentioned.
2000K means that is the highest reading for that scale. Your reading of 4.38k is good. Dryer will still function in auto dry, it will tumble and heat but timer will not work like it’s supposed to. In auto dry, the timer only starts advancing after the clothes start to become dry. With the way it is connected now, it will advance all the time just as in timed dry.
Eric
I am not sure the 4.38 reading means 4.38k. Hopefully it is. So I am all set to put the timer back with the change? Nothing bad will happen, right? 
The reading is correct but we are leaving the resistor out anyway. Nothing bad will happen. What is the model number of your multimeter?
Eric
Here is a link for the multi-meter.
http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/dt830b-digital-multimeter.php
I thought the reading 4.38 needs to multiply the dial selection (which is 20K). Anyway, I trust your judgement since you know so much in this area :-).
I have put back the control panel and plugged in the power cord. I will post back once I have it tested with power.
Thanks!
Qing
The 20k means it will read up to 20kohms in that range setting. If you needed to measure something over 20kohms and under 200kohms, you would move up to the 200k range.
Eric
It did not explode or cause a fire :). It still heats. I will need some clothes to run a complete timed cycle to see if the timer will go to the end and stop. Wife had done all clothes for now. I will definitely post back the final result.
No matter what happens, thank you so much for your time and patience to help me out. Hope you have a great week!