just checked it, no power from line to ground. just wondering, but what is the likelihood my fridge being wired different? all the instructions & everything i’ve read all applies to side X sides, where as mine is a top freezer. just wondering? ant:confused:
[SIZE=3]The line side is broken that explains why you have voltage from the J7 pin 6 (it is open like reading across a open switch. [/SIZE]
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[SIZE=3]I have been looking at a service manual for your exact model. Also your board is the same board used on side-by-side models. [/SIZE]
ok, so by broken , do you mean the actual line plug is broken from the board or that the orange wire is broken before the board coming from lower part of fridge to the board? i assume that its the latter , because if i understand all this correctly there should be power on the orange wire not the purple? if you think thats where the problem is , i’m gonna start diggin in! ant
No, the orange is neutral meaning you should have voltage from any line to neutral. Now that you say you don’t have voltage when you check line to ground I think the line is open, which could be a plug loose or broken wire. Do you get voltage from the purple wire to the orange wire? From what I am hearing you will. Make sure all the plugs are connected. Then check to see if you have voltage from the purple wire to ground.
That purple wire is just a wire that lets the board know if the light in refrigerator is on or not. you get voltage to it because it connects to line but the board receives line from that wire marked line on the board.
it is with the greatest appreciation to all that helped me that i am even putting myself through the shame of posting this. to all of you that said " probably something unplugged or a broken wire" ,well sirs you were correct. turns out some dumba** (me) didn’t plug the power wire to the board. i didn’t pay attn when i was unplugging the plugs & didn’t notice that the power plug didn’t actually plug to a
"plug", just the actual terminals sticking up out of the board. i just thought that little purplish colored pug was for the dispenser models. so thats my confession. i really reall really appreciate everyones help! thanks again, :Dant
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[SIZE=3]Don’t feel bad we all have done things like that even if we won’t admit it. [/SIZE]
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[SIZE=3]I saw the plug off in the picture but though you had it off to test sorry I didn’t say anything. Anyways I am glad you figured it out!![/SIZE]
http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/GErefrigeratorrepair.html
can anyone tell me what regulates the temp/air flow to the fresh food section? i’ve looked at the drawings & the best i can tell is that there is no damper or diffuser. if that is the case what is it that the temp controls actually do? the problem is that the freezer is freezing but the fridge only gets down to 45 - 50 degrees. i pulled the panel out of the freezer & checked the evaporator. no ice just normal frost. i put a cup of water in the freezer & a cup of water with a thermometer in it in the fridge. the cup in the freezer froze. this is after the fridge had been running over 24 hrs. also the freezer setting was on 7 and the fridge was on 8. thanks once again! ant
[SIZE=3]You might try turning the freezer control down a little this will allow more air into the refrigerator section. [/SIZE]
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[SIZE=3]Also make sure the fan is running and the doors are sealing good. [/SIZE]
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[SIZE=3]There is a possibility the fan blade is pushed onto the fan shaft too far which can cause an airflow problem. The back of the blade should be about an inch from the fan motor, which should leave ¼- 3/8 of an inch sticking out of the shroud. [/SIZE]
applianceman, thanks again. i checked the fan , it was up out of the shroud by about a half inch. i pushed it down to about 3/8. obviously i am not an electrician, but i am a mechanic and i still don’t under stand what would direct more cold air to the fridge without some sort of damper. can someone explain?
Fan speed regulates the airflow. Everything in the freezer and fresh food section has got to be put back the way it was for proper airflow.
is the evap fan supposed to run every time the compressor runs. for the whole time the compressor runs? its not if its supposed to be. also i’ve noticed if the compressor is running & i set the temp dials on either the freezer or the fridge side to 9, i can hear the compressor stop. it runs on 8 but not 9. i replaced the evap fan about 3 or 4 years ago may be bad again already? i’m startin to get the feelin that this fridges life is coming to an end.
[SIZE=3]On this model the evaporator will run without the compressor on and the after defrost cycle the compressor will run without the evaporator fan running. [/SIZE]
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[SIZE=3]The evaporator should come on if the door is open for more than three minutes. [/SIZE]
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[SIZE=3]Note that the condenser fan should always run when the compressor is running. [/SIZE]
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[SIZE=3]Is it working ok now or is it still giving you problems? [/SIZE]
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[SIZE=3]As I stated before everything needs to be reinstalled for proper airflow. [/SIZE]
applianceman, thanks once again. its still only getting down to 45-50 degrees in the fridge section.i’m gonna keep the door open for 3 mins & see if the fan starts.i know it has been running, i’ve heard it. is it running everytime it supposed to? i don’t know that may be the whole problem? gonna check & see if it comes on. i’ll let you know the results. ant
[SIZE=3]No it doesn’t make sense that it shuts off when the controls are set to nine. The encoder and the main board can cause this and as I said before the main board should revert back to normal settings if the encoder is unplugged. [/SIZE]
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[SIZE=3]Yes a bad fan can fry the main board that is one of the things I though may have been the problem before (when you had the plug loose). If you still have you old (original) board look on it and see if there are any burnt resistors if so try to describe where the burnt resistor is located on the board. [/SIZE]
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[SIZE=3]One more questions what was your original problem, before you changed the main board?[/SIZE]
the original problem was that i noticed the fridge started getting warmer slowly over time. also once in a while when the freezer was opened it looked like the freezer had been off a while and stuff had started to defrost. then later i could see where water had been & refrozen. right now it has been running for about 48 hours. with the freezer set on 5 & the fridge on 8 its 40 degrees in the fridge. gonna check the evaporator again to see if its froze over.
ok , after the fridge has been running about a week, i just opened the door for 3+ mins & the evap fan never tried to run. there was minimal frost on the evap coils. i might try checking out the fan motor but i’ll prob go ahead & order one anyway?
after replacing the evap fan motor & the evap thermistor, its running. its been holding temp about 5 days now. thanks to everyone for their help! ant:)
Very good work, I had one last weak, the evaporator thermister was supposed to be 5Kohm, measured 160 ohm and it was soft and squishy like the thing got heat stress!!
I have an 2003 MODEL # BCI20T Amana bottom freezer refrigerator. The freezer is just cold and will not freeze anything. No frost on the coils. Replaced the thermostat part #10442411 which was covered in ice. I dropped it just before instillation, hope this did not effect it. It still isn’t freezing. I do have part # P1309702WL the timer defrost however, I do not know where to install it. The fan is working. Before I installed the thermostat part I could put a bag of ice in the freezer area and it would last me a few days. Now when I put a bag of ice in it starts to melt and only last one day. I have seemed to made more of a problem. Help me to get my freezer to work.
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][COLOR=#333333][LEFT]To add on to this, I have a EBX1005G01 rev. M unit bought 09/2003…
I have read all the posts and have a similar GE/Hotpoint [S/S, same main board #, model# HSS25GFPA WW].
Quick history - compressor quit running so I put food into a spare unit. Just for fun I plugged it back in and it ran for a few days perfectly, then stopped. This pattern worked for 5 or so times and now only the lights and condenser fan runs, nothing else.
I have checked all that I can think of and have nagging "thermistor" questions. All 3 have approx 1200ohms each measured at plug #J1. BTW, where are they???
Power comes to the contoller board. Voltages are: J11[line] to: J9[defr]=120v, J8[comp]=120v, J7-N=120v, J7-dfz=120v, J7-dff=120v, J7-qch=0v, J7-common=0v, J7-water=120v, J7-crusher=120v, J7-auger=120v. I have also disconnected the encorder board plug with no change. I have triple checked all the connectors.
From what the Pros have written, it could be the board or thermistors. And I understand that bad thermistors can re-fry a board.
Any other help??? THANKS!
MemMan
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