My electric Kenmore Evenheat dryer intermittently wasn’t producing any heat. Recently, it stopped heating altogether.
I tested all of the possible components with a multimeter per the tech sheet (including the temperature selector switch) and found that only the heating element didn’t check out. Replaced that with a brand new part, but still no heat. Then I replaced all the other cheap & easy stuff (new thermal cut-off, new high limit thermostat, new thermistor, new thermal fuse), but still no heat. Then I replaced the more expensive stuff (new Evenheat control board, new motor because I thought maybe the actuator was faulty), but still no heat.
What else could possibly be wrong? The dryer runs fine, but just doesn’t heat up.
If you loose half the line it can give a no heat condition as the heater requires 240 volts but everything else runs on 120.
Check the power at the plug with a meter, also check it at the terminal strip in the unit.
L1 to L2 = 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral = 120 volts
Note that sometimes loose connections can show voltage with no load but will open as soon as a load is applied. So if the volts measure OK with no load, I would check it at the terminal strip with the unit running. Just be careful as 240 is lethal.
I just swapped the motor relay with the heater relay, since the motor was running fine before. Now the motor will only stay on if I hold the start button in and the heater element still isn’t firing up when I’m doing that (i.e., holding the start button and letting the motor run).
Is this a definite sign that my problem is the relay? I’m figuring that if it was the relay (and I’m guessing that it was, since now the motor’s not running on its own), then the heater element should still stay on as I’m forcing the motor to run. Or am I wrong?
I hope I’m wrong and that I’ve finally isolated it to the relay!
Am not sure if it is the only part that is bad.
They do not provide much info on what they are monitoring if anything, that would hold the heater relay coil power off.
It would be best to check the relay coil resistance to see if that is the cause of the relay not closing.
Also I would swap them back and see if the unit is now back to the original problem. If not, there is a possibility that the relay coil is shorted and this may have now blown the motor relay coil drive electronics.
If this is the case you will need a new board and a new relay.
Note: that you would have needed these before you did the swap, the board was already blown you just confirmed the cause.
It is very common for these Chinese made heater relays to literally blow out causing the pc board to burn out. You probably blew out the pc board if you left the old relay in!
Where are these relays located?
I simply did a search for the model number I am working on and came up with this thread.
I have replaced the heating element and the 2 switches located on the heating element housing.
Still no heat.
I’m no electrician so I’m not familiar with what relay does what on this thing.
Where do I go from here?
Sears like to keep parts breakdowns in house but if you go to their parts site you can get the breakdowns. The relays are in the control console.
Where do I go from here?
I would check the power to the unit. If you do not have 240 volts everything will run except the heater.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on. Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!
This may be a jod for a pro if you have no electrical experience!!
If the power is good then you will need a meter
I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.
I am certainly no electrician but I do own a multi meter. I have not checked the power coming out of the wall. I know nothing about testing 240 volts. I did however ohm out the white thermal fuse and the thermistor mounted right next to it. Both checked good.
I have now replaced the heating element, both of the thermal switches located on the heating element housing and checked the thermal fuse and thermistor and still no heat.
Buying a new dryer is really not an option right now but I am starting to feel like I’m just throwing money at this one and getting no where.
I gave up.
What else is there to replace besides the control panel? Which is rather pricey considering what a replacement dryer cost.
Bought a new GE, plugged it in and it works like a champ.
Anyone have any use for a few "BRAND NEW" parts for the Kenmore?
I sure hate to just throw them away with the old dryer
