I have a Maytag Gemini Model# MER6872BAS Serial# 21772367CV (Double oven) and I have been getting sporadic F1-A errors (Latch Switch, Upper) and a few F9-2 (Latch, Unlock Upper) and F9-3 (Latch Both Upper) errors as well. There does not seem to be any pattern to it, and if I cancel the alarm out several times the oven will work fine for awhile and then (hours or maybe days later) will alarm again.
Based on the error codes I am planning to replace part AP4095528 (Lock, door latch assembly) which is #12 on the oven diagram. The replacement process looks very straightforward.
Any thoughts or advice on my diagnosis of the problem, or the part installation process would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Julie
Your diagnosis sounds right, but before order any parts I would check the latch switches and the motor for continuity and inspect the wire harness and connections.
If there is nothing wrong with the door latch switches and its motor, then the problem can be a bad control board.
Thank you Gene!
I did not even think of the control board.
I had checked the continuity on the switches and the wire harness seemed fine.
I checked the motor function by starting the cleaning cycle and ensuring the latch locked (and unlocked properly after it cooled).
When I checked the switch continuity though, it was not showing an error at that time. Do I need to recheck the continuity when the error code repeats, or would I have noticed a problem on the meter even when the oven is functioning normally?
Is there any way to check the control board before replacing it, or is that a diagnosis by process of elimination?
If the error codes "F9-2" & "F9-3" are intermittent and the door can be locked and unlocked and you still can use the self clean, the problem most likely is a bad control board.
I’ve been too busy to even order the control board, and I just realized that it has been a week since I had any error codes pop up.
Even when the errors did occur back a couple of weeks ago they would clear and the oven would work fine after I hit "cancel" a few times.
Normally I like to get ahead of problems and fix things before they get "worse" (like my oven does not work at all!!), but do you see any harm in just letting this ride for awhile to see what happens?
Is it normal for a bad control board to not generate errors for this long even when the oven is being used on a regular basis?
My Whirlpool washer initially would not spin on the delicate and hand wash cycles. Then the spin started failing in the normal cycle. Sometimes it spins and sometimes it does not. I called a repairman and he told me the timer is bad. I am not sure this is the problem.
I have continued to use the washer and now I have noticed that when agitating, the agitator is getting weaker as the number of minnutes left on the wash cycle decreases. The last time I washed I even smelled a light burning smell.
Any idea what is causing this? I’ve read that it could be the coupling, the clutch, the transmission, clutch basket drive, tub drive box and so many other possibilities.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what is going on with my washer?
Hi…ancient thread, current problem. Same diagnosis? Gemini MER6770AAQ double oven, F9-2 code, switch shows continuity appropriately both when locked and unlocked, and open for park position. But latch always cycles four times and throws a code, parking in partial position even when started correctly. Seems control can’t recognize unlocked position. Bad board? Can lockout function be disabled? Need oven use more than self-clean function.Thanks.
My Whirlpool washer initially would not spin on the delicate and hand wash cycles. Then the spin started failing in the normal cycle. Sometimes it spins and sometimes it does not. I called a repairman and he told me the timer is bad. I am not sure this is the problem.