No Dryer Heat

Dryer Repair
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1

Our Whirlpool dryer no longer generates heat to dry clothes? Which part is no longer working as intended?

2

Hi APP Team,

I followed all your 6 steps and tried to determine which part(s) might go bad in my Whirlpool Dryer model no LEC8858EQ0, no heat but run !

Here are the results:

Step 1 passed
Step 2 passed
Step 3 passed
Step 4 - Thermal fuse seemed to be good as the ohmmeter showed 0 (all way to the right)
Step 5 - checked the heating element continuity: it showed 0 if the two test points were touched on the two
terminals, BUT it sometime showed lots of resistance (or infinite resistance) if you touched the two test points on the coils ! How do you determine if the coils were brunt out ? or going-to-be-bad ?

Step 6 - check the thermal cut-off for continuity: the one (with two terminals) connected to heating element seemed to be goog as it showed 0 resistance. The other one part has two pairs of terminals (mounted directly under the Thermal fuse), one pair showed 0 resistance, the other pair showed 75% of resistance (with wires connected to different terminals), at this point I’m not sure if this part is good or bad.

Thanks in advance!

Dennis

3

Dennis,

Did you remove wires from parts in question prior to test them?

Did you check for 240V at the power outlet?

Gene.

4

Just wanted to re-state it. I did NOT remove any wire from parts.

Note that the top part with # 3399848 on the mounting plate (I think it is part of thermal cut-off kit) showed inifinte resistance (is it Bad?) when measured on the two terminals. The bottom part with part# 3390291 (I also think it is part of thermal cut-off kit) showed 0 resistance (is it Good ?)

The internal bias thermostat with part# 3387134 (next to the blower) has two pairs of terminals, one pair showed 0 resistance (is it Good ?), the other pair showed near infinite resistance (Bad ? or is this supposed to be ?)

Thanks in advance again,

Dennis

5

Hi Gene,

Thanks for the reply.

Here are the results:

I removed all the wires from the following 3 parts:

  • 3399848: top part of thermal cut-off
  • 3390291: bottom part of thermal cut-off, also ca is called thermostat, High Limit
  • 3387134: thermostat, Internal Bias

The 3399848 did NOT have continuity on two terminals, it showed near infinity resistance. (BAD!?)
The 3390291 did have continuity on two terminals as it showed 0 resistance. (GOOD!?)
The 3387134 has two pairs of terminals, the outside-long pair of terminals does HAVE continuity as it showed 0 resistance (GOOD!?), the inner-short pair of terminals does NOT have continuity as it showed near infinity resistance (BAD!?)

I bought all three brand new parts yesterday, before connecting to wires, I measured all parts’ continuity,
the 3399848 showed 0 resistance (GOOD!), the 3390291 also showed 0 resistance (GOOD!), the 3387134,
the outside-long pair of terminals showed 0 resistance (GOOD!), the inner-short pair of terminals, however, STILL showed near infinity resistance (NO continuity, NO GOOD !?, or this is supposed to be!?)

Anyway, I installed these three new parts in place, and finally I GOT HEAT!!! look like that the 3399848 (top part of thermal cut-off) was BAD !, I put a load of wet clothes in the dryer, it did dry the clothes,
HOWEVER, IT DID NOT STOP ! AND CONTINUOUSLY RUNNING !!! I CHECKED THE Automatic Cycle Knob did NOT move AT ALL !!! STILL POINTED AT THE BEGINNING OF POINT!

Any idea/clue what part is bad causing this problem ???

Thanks again,

Dennis

6

Hi Gene,

The timer did NOT advance to the timed cycle; it did NOT move at all,
stayed at the same location! I have to MANUALLY stop it!

Which part(s) is bad ? or what to check on the Automatic Cycle timer ?

Regards,

Dennis

7

Hi Gene, hoping for your help again

No dryer heat on a gas whirlpool dryer…I’ve replace the coils, the thermal sensor and the ignitor…what now?? LGN2000LWO

Leesa

8

I haven’t, I’ll check that. Is there another part that is getting weak if it is the thermal fuse?

Leesa:confused:

9

Whirlpool recommended to replace the cycling thermostat (#9 on the break down diagram) too if the thermal fuse is open. Also check the exhaust line (inside & outside) for any blockage.

Gene.

10

Thanks Gene, I changed the fuse and thermostat and we’re up and running once again:) thanks for your help!!

Leesa

11

I must say that I am not pleased with the part. The indented white metal shaft which has been dimpled to allow easy sizing is not very robust. I measured the size of the orignal shaft and matched the length only to find that when adding the plastic adaptor it stuck out from the stove an additonal 3/4". I grabbed the shaft with a needle nose pliers to secure the shaft and I used an electricans pliers to snap off another small piece. The shaft broke completely from the switch. I would expect that the portion afixed to the switch would be a little more robust.

Do you have any solutions to the complete shaft being gone?

Frank

12

— Begin quote from Frank Howd;124155

I must say that I am not pleased with the part. The indented white metal shaft which has been dimpled to allow easy sizing is not very robust. I measured the size of the orignal shaft and matched the length only to find that when adding the plastic adaptor it stuck out from the stove an additonal 3/4". I grabbed the shaft with a needle nose pliers to secure the shaft and I used an electricans pliers to snap off another small piece. The shaft broke completely from the switch. I would expect that the portion afixed to the switch would be a little more robust.

Do you have any solutions to the complete shaft being gone?

Frank

— End quote

May I have your email address please.

13

My address is fh3143@att.com

Thank You

14

Gene said:
Had you check the voltage at the wall outlet or at the dryer terminal block?

There are three wires - two hot and one neutral. Each hot to neutral should read 120 VAC and between both hot should be 240 VAC. If there is only 120 VAC is coming to the dryer, then everything will work except the heating element which requires 240 VAC.

Gene.
Gene,
I read out the terminal block on the dryer and i found that the black and red are hot, with the yellow, green, and green w/ white stripe are neutral. can you post a picture of how it should be wired for a 4 prong power cable, or point me in the right direction? thank you !!

15

What is the complete model number of the dryer?

Gene.

16

teds840pq1 it is an whirlpool estate.

17

You can find the complete instructions in the Installation instructions.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5160131

Gene.

18

There are three screws on the dryer terminal block. The center screw is always neutral (white wire). Two outer terminals are for hot lines (usually red and black). It does not make any difference which hot wire goes left or right.

If you used 3 wires power cord, then the dryer internal ground is connected to the middle screw (green wire or metal ground strap).

The 4 wire power cord has a ground (green) additional wire. If it’s used for your dryer connection, then this power cord ground wire should be connected to the dryer terminal block frame or the dryer cabinet and the dryer internal ground wire or metal ground strap must be removed from the terminal block center screw. The neutral and hot wires have no difference in their connections between the 3 and 4 wires power cords.

Gene.

19

Sounds like this cycling thermostat is fine. Did you check the circuit breakers? There are two breakers and they both must be On to provide 240 VAC to the dryer.

Measure the voltage at the wall outlet.

Gene.

20

I followed these steps and they’re all fine:

  1. Make sure one of the circuit breakers is not tripped
  2. Make sure dryer gets 220 volts at the wall socket
  3. Unplug the dryer and check the main terminal block for damage (this is where the power cord is attached)
  4. Check the thermal fuse for continuity with an ohmmeter (fuse is number 7 on this diagram)
  5. Check the heating element for continuity (heater is number 17 on the same diagram)
  6. Check thermal cut-off for continuity (number 9 on the same diagram)
  7. Check cycling thermalstat ( two prongs has continuity and two other prongs w/ purple cables do not have continuity). I thought this was the issue so I ordered the part. So if you said this part is ok, then what could be the issue? Thanks for helping.