Hi Gene,
Any idea what else could cause the dryer to work but no heat? Thanks and appreciate your help.
Korry-
— Begin quote from nguyeko;203744
I followed these steps and they’re all fine:
- Make sure one of the circuit breakers is not tripped
- Make sure dryer gets 220 volts at the wall socket
- Unplug the dryer and check the main terminal block for damage (this is where the power cord is attached)
- Check the thermal fuse for continuity with an ohmmeter (fuse is number 7 on this diagram)
- Check the heating element for continuity (heater is number 17 on the same diagram)
- Check thermal cut-off for continuity (number 9 on the same diagram)
- Check cycling thermalstat ( two prongs has continuity and two other prongs w/ purple cables do not have continuity). I thought this was the issue so I ordered the part. So if you said this part is ok, then what could be the issue? Thanks for helping.
— End quote
Korry,
Did you disconnect the wires from the parts before the continuity tests?
If your answer is "Yes", then check for continuity between the timer terminals BK (black) and R (red) while the timer is in any auto or timed dry position. The wires should be removed from those terminals.
Gene.
Yes! Check the timer terminals between black and red wires as well. It has continuity. I replaced the thermastats because I ordered it thinking the thermastats was the issue. Anyway, the dryer runs w/ the drummer rolls but still no heat. What could be the problem if those were not the issue? The timer seems to work as well.
Korry-
— Begin quote from Gene;204136
Korry,
Did you disconnect the wires from the parts before the continuity tests?
If your answer is "Yes", then check for continuity between the timer terminals BK (black) and R (red) while the timer is in any auto or timed dry position. The wires should be removed from those terminals.
Gene.
— End quote
— Begin quote from nguyeko;204533
Yes! Check the timer terminals between black and red wires as well. It has continuity. I replaced the thermastats because I ordered it thinking the thermastats was the issue. Anyway, the dryer runs w/ the drummer rolls but still no heat. What could be the problem if those were not the issue? The timer seems to work as well.
Korry-
— End quote
Everything checks OK, but there is no heat… It can not be like that. Very likely something was wrong with the tests. You may want to start it from scratch.
Gene.
Thanks Gene. It turned out the heating element is bad. There are 4 terminals in the vicinity. I was mistaken w/ the 2 other terminals. The heating element ONLY has one wire connected to its terminal. Anyway, after replaced the heating element, it works perfectly.Thanks again.
Korry-
— Begin quote from nguyeko;205890
Thanks Gene. It turned out the heating element is bad. There are 4 terminals in the vicinity. I was mistaken w/ the 2 other terminals. The heating element ONLY has one wire connected to its terminal. Anyway, after replaced the heating element, it works perfectly.Thanks again.
Korry-
— End quote
Korry,
I’m glad to hear you were able to fix it. Good job!
Thank you for the feedback.
Gene.
— Begin quote from qiqiangzhu;205914
Why you keep tell us check the voltage for 220v?
Mine is a Whirlpool gas dryer, model # CG2951XYW3. From the manual, it uses 110v.
— End quote
Did we tell you to check voltage for YOUR DRYER?
It should be done for electric dryers only.
What is wrong with your dryer?
Gene.
— Begin quote from Gene;205922
Did we tell you to check voltage for YOUR DRYER?
It should be done for electric dryers only.
What is wrong with your dryer?
Gene.
— End quote
No heat, sir.
The drum is turning normally though.
I will check continuity tomorrow and let you know the result.
The first part you may want to check is the thermal fuse (#6 on the diagram).
Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=246483
Gene.
— Begin quote from Gene;205959
It’s on the left side bottom.
Gene.
— End quote
Nice, I will have it tested first.
Thanks.
Looks like the cycling thermostat is fine. Now you have to check the igniter, flame sensor and gas valve coils.
You picked up the wrong thread on the forum from the beginning. This thread describing troubleshooting for electric dryers. You can find the troubleshooting for gas dryers here: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dryer-repair/4743-no-heat-gas-dryer.html
Gene.
Unfortunatly I am still having a no heat issue with my dryer after completing all the listed steps on all 6 pages. TWICE! Maybe I am doing something wrong, everything shows o ohms except the element which shows 10 ohms, but I read somewhere else that 10 ohms is acceptable. I will be calling around to repair shops tomorrow but would really like to get this taken care of myself. It is a used dryer that I picked up for 30 bucks, already ran the new wiring I need for it and don’t want to have to redo all that work to go back to my old dinosaur of a dryer. Thanks in advance for help and I will be checking this constantly.
BTW: Whirlpool LER4434AQ0
Reading more threads, could it be my M2/M1 motor’s centrifugal switch? If so, how to I access that? Do I have to take the drum out? Should I check voltage at the thermostats and stuff while its running?
Thanks
— Begin quote from lilteddyp;228458
Reading more threads, could it be my M2/M1 motor’s centrifugal switch? If so, how to I access that? Do I have to take the drum out? Should I check voltage at the thermostats and stuff while its running?
Thanks
— End quote
Have you checked the voltage at the wall outlet? It suppose to be 120 VAC between each of the two hot wires and the neutral, and 240 VAC between the hot wires. The heating element needs 240 VAC while the motor needs only 120 VAC.
Gene.
— Begin quote from Gene;228648
Have you checked the voltage at the wall outlet? It suppose to be 120 VAC between each of the two hot wires and the neutral, and 240 VAC between the hot wires. The heating element needs 240 VAC while the motor needs only 120 VAC.
Gene.
— End quote
I have 120 on each side(I am assuming that would comine itself to 240) How would I check both sides combined? Use gator clips to both hots? I barely mess with 110vac and almost never 220vac (but I don’t hesitate to jump on 12vdc!)
How did you measure 120 VAC? What kind of meter did you use?
Gene.
One of these (not my pic)
http://media.photobucket.com/image/commercial%20electric%20hdm350/Herec/PA230009.jpg
Commercial Electric HDM350 DMM
Login to a private Photobucket.com album
Password: appliancepartspros
is a link to my photobucket with pictures of the back of the dryer and a video of my checking everything. The vid is dark due to lighting and my girlfriend isnt the best camerawoman.
Check the timer for continuity between the BK and R terminals while the timer is in timed dry position.
Gene.