No Heat

Dryer Repair
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1

I have no heat but I show no breaks in thermal fuse or heat element ( both have ohms indicating)

3

Start at the outlet. Look for 240VAC. It probably won’t be exact, but should be reasonably close. You need to check for 120VAC between each of the hot legs in the outlet, and ground. If you don’t get that, try flipping the breaker off then back on, very deliberately, a couple times and see if that does it.

If the outlet checks out OK, check for the same thing at the power cord connection to the dryer.

If the power is there, try all the cycles in the timer and see if you get heat out of one of them (Of course, you won’t have heat in Air Fluff, or, NO HEAT cycle). If one cycle produces heat, but not others, replace the timer.

Let us know what you find.

If you still have it apart enough to have checked the thermal fuse, you might also check the other thermostats for continuity.

4

Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=RES7648JQ0

If you are checking the thermal fuse on the blower assembly then you are checking the wrong one. That one kills power to the motor.
You want to check the thermal cut-off (Item 9 in Section 3) on the heater, that is the one that kills power to the heating coil. If it is blown there are other things you should check before replacing it.

I would start by checking the power to the unit. The motor runs off of 120 volts but the heater requires the full 240 volts.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

5

I checked #7 in diagrahm 3 as well as the heat element both have continuity also 240 is coming in

6

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

Looks like it may be a little more complicated to find.

Unplug the unit and attach/tape one meter lead on L1 at the power cord plug and leave it there.
Set the unit to high/regular heat, auto cycle.
Use the most sensitive scale on your meter, usually 200 ohms.
Now work your way back through the heater circuit.

So both sides Timer Switch 2 should be 0 ohms.
Also for all thermostats and the left hand side (on the wiring diagram) of the heater.
The right hand side of the heater should be 8 to 12 ohms.

If all are OK then it is either a bad connection/wire from the heater to L2 or the heater centrifugal switch is toast or is not closing for some reason.