self clean locked up oven

[ALopezCDP]

PLEASE Help… Ref: Ikea/whirlpool model #IBS550P serial W10210916A 30” built in oven / self clean was initiated for 1st time, let it sit overnight next morning appears there is no power, checked breakers, turned breaker off waited a few min breaker back on still nothing and of course door is lock shut.
Need to know if this unit has a door release button or slot to open with out power?

What has caused this problem is it the thermal fuse?

Are you aware of other problems with this Unit?

Major issue is this Unit is in Exuma Bahamas and no “service centers” in the area And Whirlpool Customer service will not let me talk to a Tech due to no service in our areas.

[ALopezCDP]

Hi Joe, TXS Again for your help with this
I ordered part and have received it no installation instructions.

I know it sounds simple but… remember this is going to Exuma, Bahamas and
nothing is simple or easy when you do not have a "service" guy. :eek:

So any detailed info you can send / give me would be appreciated

TXS ALopez

[Joe_APP_Team]

— Begin quote from ALopezCDP;483711

If it were me doing it I would not Worry as much.
But I have to count on a Service Guy I have never used before and
Have no Clue how much he knows about this.
That is why I was asking for a Little more detail or Info

Thanks
Ana

— End quote

I understand, now.

You’ve got a pretty good idea, of how he should be going about it, and where he should be working. I think, you’ll be fine.

[ALopezCDP]

Hi Joe,

Well Part number: AP3885687

was ordered and On Island But I get the following email from My Repair Guy
[FONT=Verdana][SIZE=2]Good Morning Ana,
[/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=2] [/SIZE][FONT=Verdana][SIZE=2]When I arrived at the house, I looked at the Oven and immediately discovered that the breaker power was on but the Oven had no electrical power. I knew then that something else was wrong other than the part you sent. On troubleshooting the electrical circuitry, why the Oven had no electrical power, this fuse was the cause.

[/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=2] [/SIZE] [FONT=Verdana][SIZE=2]The thermostat that you sent could be the problem why this fuse was blown to protect the Oven unit PC board. This thermostat will have to be changed along with the fuse.

[/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=2] [/SIZE] [FONT=Verdana][SIZE=2][COLOR=black]Below is the picture of the fuse your Oven carries!
[/COLOR]
[/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=2] [/SIZE][FONT=Verdana][SIZE=2]http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/whirlpool-oven-thermal-fuse-item-number-ap3110028.aspx

[/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=2] [/SIZE] [SIZE=2]It is made by Whirlpool. For the correct part, please refer to the exact model and serial numbers[/SIZE][FONT=Verdana][SIZE=2].
[/SIZE][/FONT]

Part # IBS550PWS00 / S# XY1102490

I did Chat with APS person and they tell me they cant find what I need?

Any Ideas or Suggestions on Which one of the 2 they show on line is one I need?

TXS

[Joe_APP_Team]

— Begin quote from ALopezCDP;493296

Hi Joe,

Well Part number: AP3885687

was ordered and On Island But I get the following email from My Repair Guy
[SIZE=2]Good Morning Ana,[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]When I arrived at the house, I looked at the Oven and immediately discovered that the breaker power was on but the Oven had no electrical power. I knew then that something else was wrong other than the part you sent. On troubleshooting the electrical circuitry, why the Oven had no electrical power, this fuse was the cause. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=2]The thermostat that you sent could be the problem why this fuse was blown to protect the Oven unit PC board. This thermostat will have to be changed along with the fuse.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=2]Below is the picture of the fuse your Oven carries! [/SIZE]

[SIZE=2]http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/whirlpool-oven-thermal-fuse-item-number-ap3110028.aspx[/SIZE]

[SIZE=2]It is made by Whirlpool. For the correct part, please refer to the exact model and serial numbers[/SIZE][SIZE=2]. [/SIZE]

Part # IBS550PWS00 / S# XY1102490

I did Chat with APS person and they tell me they cant find what I need?

Any Ideas or Suggestions on Which one of the 2 they show on line is one I need?

TXS

— End quote

Alopez,

Your oven had to have taken a very large voltage spike, to open the control panel thermal fuse, since the oven was not in use at the time.

There are two(2) thermal fuses for this style wall oven, and the only major difference is the connector terminals.

[part]AP3110028[/part]

[part]AP3777386[/part]

I’m pretty sure you’ll need the AP3110028 thermal fuse, the more common part, but you should probably forward this to your technician, and have him varify the terminal connections.

Good Luck,

[ALopezCDP]

Hi Joe,
Thanks for Info on the Fuse 1st person who could give me some answers…
The Oven was in Use at that time we had put it to do Self Cleaning in the PM Next AM it was Dead and Door Locked… It would not surprise me if During the PM hours we might have had a brown out it happens on Island a lot and or it had received other shut downs in the past 8 months and the self-cleaning did it in!!

TXS for your Help will let U know how it goes

[Joe_APP_Team]

— Begin quote from ALopezCDP;494152

Hi Joe,
Thanks for Info on the Fuse 1st person who could give me some answers…
The Oven was in Use at that time we had put it to do Self Cleaning in the PM Next AM it was Dead and Door Locked… It would not surprise me if During the PM hours we might have had a brown out it happens on Island a lot and or it had received other shut downs in the past 8 months and the self-cleaning did it in!!

TXS for your Help will let U know how it goes

— End quote

Alopez,

Good Deal,

We’ll keep an eye out for your response, I’m sure you’ll be up and running soon.

Good Luck,

[mvparent0]

Hi Alopez and Joe,
If you check the Ikeafans website, this is a know problem with the Nutid oven. It tends to happen EVERY time a cleaning is run, unless you manually choose a short cleaning cycle. My suggestion would be to not run the cleaning cycle at all once your oven is fixed.

Joe – Is there a way to test both the thermal overload device and the thermal fuse with a meter to see which one is bad? I have the oven disconnected, and I don’t have a 220 line to test. The oven has been replaced, and I was going to send it to the dump. If it was a the thermal fuse that is the problem, I would be inclined to fix it and pass the oven on to someone to use (and keep it out of the landfill). Since the thermal overload is more expensive, I would probably just not go through the expense of fixing the oven.
Thanks!

Dan

[Joe_APP_Team]

— Begin quote from mvparent0;581200

Hi Alopez and Joe,
If you check the Ikeafans website, this is a know problem with the Nutid oven. It tends to happen EVERY time a cleaning is run, unless you manually choose a short cleaning cycle. My suggestion would be to not run the cleaning cycle at all once your oven is fixed.

Joe – Is there a way to test both the thermal overload device and the thermal fuse with a meter to see which one is bad? I have the oven disconnected, and I don’t have a 220 line to test. The oven has been replaced, and I was going to send it to the dump. If it was a the thermal fuse that is the problem, I would be inclined to fix it and pass the oven on to someone to use (and keep it out of the landfill). Since the thermal overload is more expensive, I would probably just not go through the expense of fixing the oven.
Thanks!

Dan

— End quote

Dan,
You may want to try a revised thermal fuse,

AP4320019

This part is rated at a slightly higher temperature(we were told) and after you do all the checks listed in the previous posts( proper installation, door alignment, seals, etc.) , repalce the thermal fuse, you should be fine from there on out.

[Ed_Reynolds]

:eek: We have a Samsung RS2530BBP refrigerator with an ice maker that has stopped functioning. The water dispenser works, if you put ice in the ice bin it will dispense ice, but if you push the reset button the water valve does not open nor does the tray rotate. I first replaced the ice maker module with no results. Pushed the reset button and nothing happens. I then replaced the main power circuit board thinking that power was not coming to the ice maker. Again nothing happens. I push the reset button and the water valve doesn’t open nor does the ice tray cycle. Any suggestions?

[Regier]

We bought the fuses and checked to make sure they worked… There’s power to the unit but the unit does not have power. The lock didn’t reset, the display doesn’t light up, nothing. The gasket looks fine. There must’ve been something plastic on the lock/latch because it melted. Otherwise everything looks good. What do we replace next? Ours is an IKEA NUTID IBS550PWS00

[Joe_APP_Team]

Regier said:
We bought the fuses and checked to make sure they worked… There’s power to the unit but the unit does not have power. The lock didn’t reset, the display doesn’t light up, nothing. The gasket looks fine. There must’ve been something plastic on the lock/latch because it melted. Otherwise everything looks good. What do we replace next? Ours is an IKEA NUTID IBS550PWS00
Regier, There are several things to check, start at the control transformer. Make sure you have 120 VAC across the black and white wires and 18 to 24 VAC across the two blue wires at the control board. Then re check the control panel thermal fuse, in the wiring harness between the transformer and the control board. It had to have gotten pretty warm to melt a part on the self clean door latch, but either way it will need to be replaced AP6016808, And there is a "relocation" kit AP5803432
designed to help keep the controls and thermal fuses in the air flow and keep them from opening or being damaged(see the attachments).

[Regier]

Joe, did what you recommend at the control transformer. I have 120 VAC across the black and white wires and 18 to 24 VAC across the two blue wires at the control board. Re checked the control panel thermal fuse, in the wiring harness between the transformer and the control board.

I haven’t replaced the latch yet because there’s no power to the display panel. Do you think replacing the latch will restore the power to the unit?

Also, I did order the reconfiguration kit, but if I’m not planning to use the self destruct button again, I’ll probably return it.

[Joe_APP_Team]

Regier said:
Joe, did what you recommend at the control transformer. I have 120 VAC across the black and white wires and 18 to 24 VAC across the two blue wires at the control board. Re checked the control panel thermal fuse, in the wiring harness between the transformer and the control board.

I haven’t replaced the latch yet because there’s no power to the display panel. Do you think replacing the latch will restore the power to the unit?

Also, I did order the reconfiguration kit, but if I’m not planning to use the self destruct button again, I’ll probably return it.

Regier, If you have 120 VAC into the control transformer, and 18-20 VAC across the blue wires (JP03/3 & JP03/2) then you have power into the control
board. You can check for line voltage into the clock from the JP06/1 and JP06/2 to chassis ground but you’re information says you have the needed voltage, and the problem is in the control.
With the way the control is wired and the circuits in the control constantly looking for the latch switch and door switch status, you’ll need to replace the door latch assembly. If the control doesn’t see the proper circuits, it will produce an error code and the oven will not work.

[Regier]

For clarification:

If we have the needed voltage to the control, but the problem is in the control, we should replace the control transformer?
The clock does not have any light display whatsoever, so we will check those wires as well.

We’ll order the latch assembly, but wanted to make sure that we could get power working first.

Thank you for your responses.

[Joe_APP_Team]

Regier said:
For clarification:

If we have the needed voltage to the control, but the problem is in the control, we should replace the control transformer?
The clock does not have any light display whatsoever, so we will check those wires as well.

We’ll order the latch assembly, but wanted to make sure that we could get power working first.

Thank you for your responses.

Regier, Correct, the two blue wires (18-20 VAC) from the control transformer is the power supply for the display, signal and the communication to the relays. If you have the voltage across the two blue wires on the control board, but no display, the control is the issue.

Ok, we can understand the waiting on the door self clean latch assembly, power to the control and operation of the oven is more desirable.

[Regier]

We replaced the Control Panel and finally got power to the oven but only by holding in the door latch. So now we know it’s worth ordering the latch next. What an engineering mess! There should be a recall on this! Thanks for all your help!

[Joe_APP_Team]

Regier said:
We replaced the Control Panel and finally got power to the oven but only by holding in the door latch. So now we know it’s worth ordering the latch next. What an engineering mess! There should be a recall on this! Thanks for all your help!

Regier, You’re Very Welcome !!! Yes you will need the door S/C latch assembly. The control board/panel is designed to constantly check the door switch circuits, even in the TOD (time of day)mode. If or when a switch fails or a latch is in the wrong position this will present a door lock error code if the motor can’t rotate the latch back to the proper position.

[powown]

Joe / APP Team said:
Regier, Correct, the two blue wires (18-20 VAC) from the control transformer is the power supply for the display, signal and the communication to the relays. If you have the voltage across the two blue wires on the control board, but no display, the control is the issue.

Ok, we can understand the waiting on the door self clean latch assembly, power to the control and operation of the oven is more desirable.

Hi, I have the same problem with the oven after I turned on the self destruct, whoops, self-cleaning function. The oven door is now locked, which was opened by a coat hanger and there is 220V going into the oven and 24VAC going into the control board. What part is the control transformer that is needed so the oven works again?

[Joe_APP_Team]

powown said:
Hi, I have the same problem with the oven after I turned on the self destruct, whoops, self-cleaning function. The oven door is now locked, which was opened by a coat hanger and there is 220V going into the oven and 24VAC going into the control board. What part is the control transformer that is needed so the oven works again?Powown, If you have 24 VDC at the control board, you shouldn’t need the control transformer, and the control panel thermal fuse would be OK as well.
We’re going to need the model number of your oven, so we can advise you properly, and if parts are needed, we will have the proper information so you can order the correct parts, and get you oven up and running. You may want to review the remainder of this thread, so you may have a better idea of other checks and possibilities. In the mean time, try and get us the model number of your oven. Thanks,