thermal fuse and locked upper door

my oven died durring a "self-clean" and now the upper door is locked closed. can I replace the thermal fuse with a locked upper door? I presume I will need to replace the thermal fuse located behind the control panel.

The thermal fuse on the backside . You need to pull the oven, and then take the top back panel off to get to it. Actually you can jump it out, to get the door open. You will need to replace it, and the upper oven sensor, because it blew the fuse, because it got to hot. If you don’t replace the sensor, it will happen again. Tom http://www.applianceeducator.com/parts.htm

What is shown on the display?

In order to unlatch the upper oven door you have to:

Open the lower oven door. Remove the bottom screw from each of the two side trims. Pull the bottom of the side trim out for about 2" and slide the top down to free it from the control panel. Unscrew the screw on each side of the control panel. Pull the bottom of the control panel out and push it up to release it from the oven cabinet supports. Label all wires and plugs at the control board. Disconnect them and set the panel face down on a padded surface to protect the finish. Push in the latch solenoid plunger and move the latch hook to unlatch the door.

The further troubleshooting depends on what is shown on the oven display and the condition of the door latch.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=259543

Gene.

Thanks for the suggestions… my control panel is completeley blank, it appears that there is no power to it… could the problem just be the fuse behind the control panel and not the "thermal fuse" in the back of the oven? My dear husband does not want to pull the whole oven:)

I would put my money on the fuse behind the control panel. It kills power to the control board.
This may help, see Page 3-2
[http://www.applianceaid.com/elecrange.html](https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/7d69e72584ddde3385256a7e00524e76/$FILE/8178007.pdf"]https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/7d69e72584ddde3385256a7e00524e76/$FILE/8178007.pdf[/URL]

The fuse on the back of the oven kills power to the elements.

Have you tried flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
It is not unusual to loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker and the control panel does use half the line (120 volts).

I am assuming that the cooling fan was running OK.
If not this maybe another problem.

Also would not be a bad idea to check the oven sensor as you may have had an overheating situation.
Here is a good site with ifo on checking it.
[URL="http://www.applianceaid.com/elecrange.html)

If we are betting money on this, I would say my diagnosis is spot on. Tell Papa, the pull the oven, and jump out the T’stat, and see if the board comes back to life. If so, follow the instructions I first gave. Ok, Denman, and Gene, let the betting begin!!! LOL!!! It must be nice to have three proffessional helping you out. Gene, Denman, Happy New Year!!!

The control panel thermal fuse can be checked for continuity as soon as you open the control panel.

You can check the oven shutdown thermal fuse, which is located on the back of the oven, from the control panel as well. Check for continuity between the P6-3 or P6-4 red wires on the control board and the red wire at the terminal block.

Gene.

Happy Prosperous New Year!

Gene, Do you think we will ever know the outcome??? Tom

kayakcrzy said:
Gene, Do you think we will ever know the outcome??? Tom

Hard to say, Tom. Unfortunately most of people don’t care to post feedbacks.

Gene.

I know. We do all we can to help people take care of there own stuff. The post back, makes the time we spend worth it!! Tom

end result… hired a guy to come in and replace both thermal fuse in back of oven and behind the control panel… THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP AND SUGGSTIONS!!!

You are welcome. We are glad you were able to fix it. It is always a good idea to hire a pro if you do not feel comfortable to do it yourself.

Thank you for your feedback.

Gene.

You guys seem to be very much experts so hopefully you can help me out (promise I’ll post a reply on how it went). I’ve a Whirlpool GBS307PRS01 single oven made ~2006. While doing self cleaning, the control panel died with the door locked. Thanks to prior posts I’ve unlocked the door with a wire hanger, and checked continuity of the overtemp switch (indicates bad so I’ll replace tomorrow). What I can’t find is a thermal overload fuse in the wiring to the control panel or on the board; I see references to in a lot of related posts/responses but I’m thinking that my unit doesn’t have one. The tech papers left in the vent area of the unit by the installers have references in the wiring diagrams to the overtemp switch but again no reference to a thermal fuse. Does my model really have a thermal fuse, and where do I find it? Thanks, and Happy New Year.

It does not look like your unit has a control board fuse so odds are that the control board is shot.

I would check that there is power (120 volts) between L1 and Neutral.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

There is also a possibility that they put in a fuse and did not update the technical info. If there is one it is probably in the wires to the control panel.
It will be a bulge in the wire. Often it is in clear plastic tubing.

If the board is shot I would also replace the suppressor (Item 12 in Section 5) just as a precaution.

I checked power supply at the terminal strip got 120V and 120V for L1 and L2 to neutral ground. Everything is tight. I don’t see a fuse in the wires to the board, so I’m thinking that the board is shot; in reference to changing the board, I don’t know what you meand by "Item 12 in Section 5."

With today Jan 2nd, I’ll have to wait till tomorrow to get the parts as the part supply stores are closed. Thanks again.

Sorry about that I meant the part using the breakdowns at AppliancePartsPros.
Here is the link.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5165436

Thanks. I went ahead and replaced the suppressor, the control panel, and the temperature trip on the back panel. Good news and bad news. I powered the unit up and everything works except the "off/cancel" key: I was able to turn the oven on and turn on the bake/broil, change temperature, change time both up and down, etc., and each heating element started to get very hot when I used bake or broil. However, I couldn’t stop the program once it started, so I shut it down at the breaker. Note that before I buttoned the oven up and just after I had installed the new components I had to jiggle the ribbon between the keypad because I got an F2 - E1 error ("Keypad ketail not connected"); then after I buttoned everything back up and reinstalled the oven in the enclosure I landed where everything works ex the off/cancel button. Thanks for any suggestions.

Have you tried cleaning/checking the keypad to control board connections.

Connector Cleaning / Checking
Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.

Unfortunately they do not publish the pinouts for the keypad so I cannot say what track is the problem. You may be able to trace this to the actual key so you can check it.

hi Kayak,Gene,Denman,I don’t know if anyone told yall lately but you guys are awesome and thanks so much for everything you do,I gotta replace a sensor and got it under control,was just double checking some info and found it thanks to you guys,again thank you for all you do and have a happy and healthy new year:)

We’re glad to hear we could help you out. If there is anything else we can help you with, drop us a line.

Gene.