Timer won't advance in auto

Dryer Repair
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1

Timer won’t advance in auto mode, but will in timed mode. Replaced timer, same problem.

3

Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=DWXR473ET3WW

GE likes to keep their tech data a secret so I cannot find a wiring diagram specific to your unit.
The following though is probably close.
http://www.applianceaid.com/image/geediagram.JPG

Often the wiring diagram is either pasted to the back or in the control console.

The way it works is that when the heating coil is shut off by a thermostat the timer gets it’s power through the coil. This is 240 volts so the resistor drops the voltage down to 120 volts which is required by the timer motor.

Unplug the unit
Check the resistor (Item 80 in Section 1), should be around 4000 ohms.
If OK
Remove the wires from the heating coils.
Mark them so you know where they go.
Check each coil for resistance, usually 15 to 20 ohms.
Then check them to the machine’s frame/case.
All should be infinite ohms.
If not you have a grounded element, it has broken or sagged and is touching the case and is on all the time. The thermostat’s cannot control it and since it does not shut off the timer never advances.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity

  1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
  2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
  3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.

4

Thanks for the quick reply. If the timer does not advance in Fluff Air Dry mode, should that eleminate the heater coils as a potential problem and narrow it down to the resistor?

5

If the timer does not advance in Fluff Air Dry mode, should that eleminate the heater coils as a potential problem and narrow it down to the resistor?
Not really.
If you look at the wiring diagram, of course this assumes I got lucky and it is close to yours, the temperature selector switches should all be open so the timer motor would get power through the upper heating coil on the wiring diagram.
So in Fluff if there is any heat at all the element is grounded.
Also if the upper element is blown then you will not get any timer advance.

6

Got it. So is there a bulletin/manual that tells me how to access the heating elements?

7

No manuals etc that I know of perhaps the following will help.
http://www.applianceaid.com/dryers.html

GE likes to keep info a secret.

8

I found a break in one of the elements. Can this be repaired, or do I need to replace the entire element?

9

It cannot be fixed, you have to replace it.

Se Item 512 in Section six.
Note: That you can get the coil by itself and it is way cheaper, see below.
AP2620171

Since you have to take it all apart you may as well check the rear bearing, belt , front drum supports, etc. Basically do an overhaul.

Aklso a good time to clean/check your vent system.