After the "Push to Start" button is pushed, the dryer motor runs (Air is circulating) however no heat.
The thermo cutoff shows 0 ohms
The operating thermostat shows 0 ohms
The hi limit thermostat shows 0 ohms
The heater coils show a few ohms (<10 ohms ie there is no open)
I have the schematic so I can scan it in if someone needs it to help me out.
I notice that the centrifusal switch has two poles. 1 pole keeps the motor running after you release the "Push to start" switch and the other pole switch on the 220vac. Is it possible that one one of the two poles is broken or durty? I notice things were very dusty and dirty around the blower assembly.
How do I get at the centrifusal switch?
Thanks in advanced
I Think That My Brake Assembly Is Locked. After Lying The Machine On Its Back, Removing The Front Cover, Checking The Motor, Which Is Good And The Springs Are Fine, I Then Removed The Belts. The Orbital Transmission Is All But Impossible To Rotate Either Clock Wise Or Anti Clock Wise, Even With The Use Of A Small Strap Wrench. The Clock Wise Direction Is The Hardest Direction In Which To Turn, Or Should I Say Attemt To Turn, It Is Tight!!
Before I Try And Remove The Brake Assembly, I Know It Will Be A Bear, I Want To Certain That The Brake Drum Is Indeed The Problem.
Suggestions On How To Isolate And Analyze The Brake Drum Being Bad.
Thanks,
John Jordan
Although there may be a problem already, you can possibly cause more trouble by trying to force the gearcase to rotate. Try, instead, to force your rotation with the drive pulley. Turn it (if you can) in a counterclockwise direction to see if the brake will release. If it doesn’t release, it is either seised, or the thrust bearing assembly is completely worn. See the diagram.http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=44182&diagram_id=635089#d635089
THANK YOU,magician59, FOR YOUR RAPID RESPONSE TO MY POSTED QUESTION.
I RE-INSTALLED THE DRIVE PULLEY AND ALIGNED THE DRIVE LUG WITH THE PULLEY LUG AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER 7. MAYTAG "NEWTON" MACHINES, PAGES 13 AND 14.
PER YOUR SUGGESTION I TURNED THE PULLEY COUNTER CLOCKWISE. (THE MACHINE LYING ON ITS BACK, FRONT CABINET COVER REMOVED AND THE FRONT FACING UP, LOOKING AT THE BOTTOM OF THE MACHINE I TURNED THE PULLEY COUNTER CLOCKWISE)
THE PULLEY WAS EASY TO TURN BUT I SAW NO MOVEMENT OF THE ORBITAL TRANSMISSION OR ANY OTHER MOVEMENT, AND AS SOON AS I TURNED THE PULLEY CLOCKWISE AND THE DRIVE PULLEY TOPPED OUT ON THE HELICAL SHAFT I COULD NOT TURN THE PULLEY BY HAND ANY FURTHER. THE TRANSMISSION JUST WOULD NOT TURN! I TRIED 10-15 TIMES, COUNTER CLOCKWISE–CLOCKWISE, WITH NO RESULTS.
SO, DOES THIS MEAN THAT I NEED TO REPLACE THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY AS I SUSPECTED OR BUY A NEW MACHINE? I HAD MUCH RATHER SPEND THE $50.00 ON A NEW BRAKE ASSEMBLY THAN $XXX.XX FOR A NEW MACHINE.
THIS MACHINE IS VERY, VERY CLEAN. THE WASH DRUM HAS NO PITS OR RUST SPOTS. I REALIZE THAT ANYTHING THAT GOES ROUND AND ROUND WILL EVENTUALLY DIE AND NEED TO BE REPLACED. THIS MACHINE HAS GIVEN A LOT OF YEARS OF SERVICE AND ITS TIME FOR A LITTLE REPAIR WORK TO BE EXPECTED. I JUST WANT TO BE SURE THAT I DON’T ORDER THE WRONG PART DUE TO MY FAILURE TO ANALYZE THE PROBLEM CORRECTLY.
WORDS OF ADVICE AND OR MORE SUGGESTIONS EAGERLY SOLICITED.
THANKS AGAIN, magician59,
JOHN JORDAN
I’m no expert on these, but it seems like your internal tranny upper bushing has run out of oil and seized.
Most of my experience with Matag machines would influence my decision to spend the money for a replacement transmission, since what you have is a Dependable Care model. Especially since you say it’s clean. I personally believe it is worth the expense; It will outlast anything on the current market.