My Whirlpool Dryer (Mod # LER6634DW0) will not heat. I have performed the suggested continuity checks (always removing one connection from each device when it was tested) with the following results. Note: all other functions seem to operate normally except that for the last few months the "start button" doesn’t have to be pushed to start the machine. We have just been using the rotary timer to activate & turn off the machine.
240V shows up on terminal strip where power cord enters machine
With machine running, there is no voltage to terminals of heater coil.
Thermostat, internal bias (3387134) shows continuity between "far terminals" but NO CONTINUITY between opposite terminals that are close together. I tried tying these two together to see what would happen … the heater still did not activate.
There was a lot of lint buildup near the blower wheel when I took off the lint chute assembly, but that is now 100% clean and the blower wheel seems to be working fine.
Any ideas?
BTW, I do not have a circuit diagram for this unit. Is there one online?
Thanks for the input and the circuit diagram. I only shorted the leads for a 15 sec test. The heater never activated so I disconnected them and put them back where they came from.
I will check the start switch, but even if the contacts are always closed (meaning "start" is always commanded) wouldn’t that allow the heater to operate? I’m asking because, while I’d like the start switch to work, that is not my #1 problem … #1 is getting the heater to activate.
I will check the timer switch as you recommend and will report back.
There is a round about way to check the centrifugal switch.
Since you have checked the heater and the 240 volts, you could put the unit into an auto cycle and let it run. If the timer advances then you know the switch is OK.
In auto modes the timer gets power through the centrifugal switch and the heating coil when it is off. The resistor drops the 240 volts down to 120 for the timer motor.
Before scrapping it check that the centrifugal mechanism is not clogged solid with lint preventing it from actuating the switches. This is a long shot as the motor will usually overheat if the start winding (by the other centrifugal switch )is not switched out after the motor starts.
Thanks for the tip. With the dryer operating and in Timed Drying mode (as suggested), I got the following voltage readings between the Timer’s Red lead and the three input leads:
Left input lead (Black wire - L1?): 240 volts
Middle input lead: 120 volts
Right input lead (Red wire - L2?): 0 volts
I’m not an electrician so I was reluctant to use my ohm meter, but its a cheapie so I put it on x1K and measured the resistance from the timer’s red lead to the right input lead (the one showing 0V above) and it showed continuity (0 Ohms).
BTW, one last fact (not previously mentioned): The two sides of the heater coil show 0 voltage between them BUT both do show 120V to ground.
Also BTW (but probably unimportant), the Start switch is now operating normally. All this fussing around must have "fixed" it!
If all of this cements a diagnosis, I would appreciate your conclusion. I promise not to draw this out any further!
OK! We have the problem isolated – sort of.:rolleyes:
I pulled the wiring harness connector off to get access to the two red wires you wanted me to short … Lo and behold, the plastic connector where the bottom heavy red wire connects to the motor is all black/burnt. My guess is that the connection became resistive and the high current created heat until the connection was lost. IF (big IF) all I need to do is pull out the red wire, clean it up and buy a new connector (3395683) I have a $3 fix. Unfortunately I don’t know if the connection on the motor side is OK or if the centrifugal switch is faulty also. I didn’t actually short the two to test it, but the black connector terminal is 99% proof that this is where the problem lies. I think I’ll clean up the connector and re-insert it. If I get heat, I will just order the connector.
OK, cleaned up the red wire connector & reinserted the harness at the motor, but still no heat. That tells be the contact on the motor side needs attention with likely motor & (possibly) wire harness replacement.
It’s been interesting, but I’m calling it a day. Big box store here I come.
THANK you for your help. I learned a lot about trouble shooting these machines. I will keep your site book-marked and will refer friends.
I have a LER8620PG0 and I can’t figure out what’s wrong with it at all. For some reason the person who I got it from unhooked all the wires everywhere. I have no idea how to read the wiring diagram! I have two dryers sitting in my basement and not a clue as to how to hook the wires up.:mad:
I cannot really help with "I have no idea how to read the wiring diagram!".
I have been doing it for years so it is like second nature.
All you do is trace the wires using the wiring diagram and color codes connecting them where they should be connected.
Sometimes using color pencils on the diagram can help.
Perhaps you have a friend who can walk you through it.
Once you get the hang of it, it is fairly easy.
Now, the ice cream is always soft. Thermometer placed inside freezer section shows 8 degrees right after the unit shuts off. Freezer will then warm up to about 26 degrees and then the unit will run and cool down. The evaporator fan is blowing normally. Condenser coils are clean, condenser fan is running when it should. I have read the ideal range for a freezer is between 0 and 10, is this what I should expect? What part controls when the unit cycles on and off? Where should I start to troubleshoot?
Check the compressor in the back. If it is hot and vibrating, it might be going bad assuming the condenser coils are clean.
It would help if you determine if everything is still running when it fails, suspect the compressor kicks out on it’s thermal overload and just stops vibrating/running.