ordered new overload looks the same but connects to power with a different plug, your boys tell me this is the only overload available for my unit. new unit has two separate male prongs which would require two plugs, old unit has two male prongs set up for one plug. What to do?
If you will look at the [B]wiring diagram[/B], you’ll see that the blue wire goes to the Common compressor terminal, which is the top terminal on the new overload. The white wire goes to the run compressor terminal.
Gene.
You may need to purchase the proper crimp on spade terminals, if they are the wrong size.
— Begin quote from Gene;746463
If you will look at the [B]wiring diagram[/B], you’ll see that the blue wire goes to the Common compressor terminal, which is the top terminal on the new overload. The white wire goes to the run compressor terminal.
Gene.
— End quote
i am guesing when you say top. when i am reading the molded words on the overload next to 5SP?
Did you open the wiring diagram by clicking on the link I posted?
Gene.
— Begin quote from Gene;747614
Did you open the wiring diagram by clicking on the link I posted?
Gene.
— End quote
yes,pretty fuzzy not able to read any words on diagram. is the overload in the diagram top left or bottom left?
— Begin quote from richappy;746692
You may need to purchase the proper crimp on spade terminals, if they are the wrong size.
— End quote
how do I know which is the top of the overload?
It’s top left and you can zoom in by pushing <Ctrl> and "+" keys.
Gene.
— Begin quote from Gene;747631
It’s top left and you can zoom in by pushing <Ctrl> and "+" keys.
Gene.
— End quote
Thanks, so I figured out the top. Capacitor is on the bottom and the the blue wire would be on top when the unit is mounted to the compressor. I was told by a friend that I needed to replace the Overload. Problem is when I put the new overload ini get the same buzzing sound as before that last 10 seconds and shuts off and then tries to start again every 2 minutes, never switching the compressor on. Which part is bad? Capacitor,overload or the compressor?
If the new start device did not fix the problem then the compressor itself is bad. The mechanical part of the compressor (pump) has more friction than it should and motor is not able to start it.
There are three solutions.
The first and very expensive is to replace the compressor. You can not do it yourself and it will cost you about $650 - $750. You probably will have one year warranty on it.
The second is to install the 3-in-1 start booster. It has more power torque and will make the compressor to run. It cost just $15.60 but nobody cab tell you how much longer it will last after this repair. It can be a few more years or a few more days.
The third is to shop for a new refrigerator.
- The 3-in-1 start booster TJ90RCO410
Gene.
These hard start kits damage the new R134A compressors. Bad idea to use one. They deliver suficiently high currents to start the compressor, but levels way behond design limits particularly during power surges.
— Begin quote from Gene;747688
If the new start device did not fix the problem then the compressor itself is bad. The mechanical part of the compressor (pump) has more friction than it should and motor is not able to start it.
There are three solutions.
The first and very expensive is to replace the compressor. You can not do it yourself and it will cost you about $650 - $750. You probably will have one year warranty on it.
The second is to install the 3-in-1 start booster. It has more power torque and will make the compressor to run. It cost just $15.60 but nobody cab tell you how much longer it will last after this repair. It can be a few more years or a few more days.
The third is to shop for a new refrigerator.
- The 3-in-1 start booster [part]TJ90RCO410[/part]
Gene.
— End quote
That sucks! I will try option two, is it easy to install? Thanks for your help.
I will not help you put on a device that will damage the compressor, these devices are marginally good on the old, pre 1995 compressors with R12 refrigerant.
— Begin quote from richappy;747868
I will not help you put on a device that will damage the compressor, these devices are marginally good on the old, pre 1995 compressors with R12 refrigerant.
— End quote
So its not worth trying? right now i’m just going to throw the unit away and buy a new one.
Hi Rich,
In such situation I disagree with you. His choice is: to give it a try and make this fridge work for some time (the value of risk is less than $16) or throw it away and by a new fridge. It is worth to try.
Gene.
To use this item is not profesional and has caused house fires. Not very wise considering the use of an unsafe product may just void his insurance.
— Begin quote from Gene;748335
Hi Rich,
In such situation I disagree with you. His choice is: to give it a try and make this fridge work for some time (the value of risk is less than $16) or throw it away and by a new fridge. It is worth to try.
Gene.
— End quote
I Agree, its working fine with the three way so far.
I agree with your choice Kue,you have the right to do what you want.
My point is I will not approve or suggest the use of this item based on data and reports showing it can be dangerous during power surges and sudden compressor failures which might occur with your compressor.This is based on my professional attitude and big concerns about liability.
As a servicer and a responder on this forum, I view this use of this item as highly not recomended based on the above.
I suggest you put a 1000 joule surge protector in the wall outlet, I use a Belkin F9H100-CW $6.99 at Amazon. Good luck with it.
It’s always a good idea to use a reliable surge protector for any appliance in your household.
Gene.