My 11 yr old Amana side by side fridge stopped cooling lastnight. The freezer started thawing and the temp in the fridge has stayed at about 45 all day today. The wall between the fridge and freezer was very hot to the touch and The condenser cooling fan was not working. I vacuumed out as much as I could front and back and gave the cooling fan a push and it started working and has been since. It has been a couple hours and the temp is now about 42. The temp control was always at 4 1/2 and is now turned up all the way. I am wondering if I should replace the condenser fan motor or is the condenser already damaged from the high heat? How long should it take to get back to a normal temp and what should that be? Should I get a stock type motor or is a universal motor available? Any help with this would be very much appreciated. I really cant afford to buy a new fridge right now. Thank you:)
— Begin quote from dgetty;503232
Thanks for the help Joe. Unfortunately, I think I will be fridge shopping after all. When I spun the fan and it started working again, I checked it the next day after work and the freezer was about 3 dgrs and fridge was about 30. I then unpluged it and replaced the fan and now it wont get cold again. Freezer about 25 and fridge about 45 dgrs. Everything is running and sounds normal but not cold.
— End quote
Dgetty,
This isn’t going the way we want it to.
At this point, my best guess would be a bad defrost timer,
[part]AP4246797[/part]
There’s a possibility that we have a double contact or an intermittent contact in the timer. You may want to try one more repair, before you replace the fridge.
Is there a way to check the defrost timer or bypass it? I just had the back inside panel off the freezer side and the only thing that was iced up was a small round piece that looked to be clipped on to the top of the coils in there. It has a blue top and was covered with ice so i cleaned it off.
— Begin quote from dgetty;505220
Why would the timer have gone bad all of a sudden like that and can it be bypassed temporarily to see if it cools?
— End quote
D,
You don’t have to bypass anything, just manually advance the timer into the second click so that terminals 1 and 4 have a closed circuit. once you set the control and plug in the power cord, it should start to cool.
As for the failure, there’s not a lot to say, but, it can and does happen. It could have been a weak circuit and the power spike finished it off.
Good Luck,
Well it was worth a shot but no luck. I went to a local parts supplier and we checked the brand new defrost timer before I bought it and it reacted no differently than my old one. No beeps at all on terms 1 & 3. One of their repair guys was standing there listening and he said it sounds like the compressor is shot. I am gonna have to give in and buy a new fridge, I cant keep dragging this out. Thanks for your assistance Joe! This site is awesome, but I wish there would be a way to converse more readily to speed things up instead of once a day. Thanks again.
Dave
what do I need to convert this range to LP?
You’ll need your tech sheet. Remove the lower drawer or broiler drawer and locate the regulator. To convert the regulator, remove the large hex nut in the center of the regulator. Remove the plastic pin under the cap and flip it 180*. You should be able to see “LP” on the flat side of the pin. Remove the surface burners and replace the four orifice spuds with the LP orifice spuds. The LP orifices have an”L” engraved on the top. There are different orifice sizes depending on the surface burner. You’ll need the tech sheet for the correct application. Use a ½” wrench and tighten the orifice hoods on the oven burners until snug. Open the air shutter on the oven burners to the full open position then adjust as needed. You may need to adjust the surface burners low flame setting. Check your tech sheet. The tech sheet should be located on the right or left side panel on the inside behind the lower drawer. The LP orifices probably came with the range so check near the tech sheet and on back of the range
my duet washer flashes an f–h code while trying to fill with water then pumps water out instantly i have cleared the codes out many times & also tried to clean the flowmter but to no avail what could be wrong here.?