Okay, so after cleaning pie filling off of the bottom of my top oven, I decided to run an "autoclean" cycle and get rid of the rest of the gunk from the past 4 years. About 2/3rds of the way through the cycle I thought it would be interesting to try and look up why they don’t include an autoclean cycle on the bottom oven. Instead, I found a lot of people posting how their oven had locked up or quit working when they ran the self-clean feature. Instead of canceling the cycle, although my whole house already smelled like burning electrical parts at that point, I thought I would take my chances.
Well here I am, 2 days later, with a top oven that doesn’t work. THANK GOODNESS they only have autoclean for the top oven!
When I turn my oven on, it acts normal. The preheat runs the same and it beeps and tells me it is all ready to go at 350*, but in reality neither filament is hot at all. What is wrong? How can I fix this? Thanks for your help in advance.
Thank you for the reply denman. I am just now almost a year later getting around to fixing this. Anyway, I have ordered the thermal overload and am trying to research replacing it. Do I have to pull my wall oven out of the cabinet to access the part? I’m assuming that is what is required for the sensor as well if needed. Any help anyone can give is appreciated. Thanks again.
Okay, I replaced the thermostat and it is still not working. I checked the heating filaments and they work fine. I haven’t replaced the sensor, but I’m assuming the oven would heat up even if the sensor was not working.
The fan kicks on and makes all of the noises like it is heating, the oven tells me it has heated up to 350 degrees, but there is no heat.
Any other suggestions? I was so excited to be able to fix this myself, but really have no idea what else may be wrong.
Okay, I replaced the thermostat and it is still not working.
Did you check the old one before replacing it?
Was it blown?
I checked the heating filaments and they work fine. I haven’t replaced the sensor, but I’m assuming the oven would heat up even if the sensor was not working.
Depends what is wrong with the sensor.
If the sensor is giving an incorrect reading then the control board could think that the unit is up to set point temperature and therefore does not turn the elements on.
The fan kicks on and makes all of the noises like it is heating, the oven tells me it has heated up to 350 degrees, but there is no heat.
If the sensor resistance is about 1,100 at room temperature then odds are that the control board is shot.
Unit thinks that the oven is at set point when it is not.
So can I use the same voltmeter thing to check the thermostat and the sensor? I don’t have one yet, but want to make sure I get the right thing. Also, I see the chart for the proper resistance, but I am not sure how to check the sensor, where I put the probes I mean.
Thank you for your help denman. I’m sure that control board is not cheap if that turns out to be the problem.
You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.
I tested the thermostat on the lowest ohm setting of 200 and it tested bad with the number 1 all the way on the left. I tested the good one just to make sure I was doing it right and it was good with the number being 0.
I tested the oven sensor, it wouldn’t measure at the lowest ohm setting, so I moved it up to 2000 ohms and it tested at right around 1080. I also tested the good one to see how it compared and it tested around the same, also setting the multimeter at 2000 to get a reading.
I notice the sensor from the non-working oven is much darker and dirtier than the lower oven, but this is probably just from use.
I tried taking the sensor from the good oven and putting it in the bad oven just to see what that would do, but when I pushed the oven on it said, "350" on the display panel, but then kept going black very quickly before I could even push start. It finally gave me an error code. In green it said F3 and in smaller yellow it said E2.
Now the error code is E0 F3 and just a plain F3. Now I’m starting to wonder if I got the oven sensors mixed up and put the one from the bad oven back in.
Now I’m starting to wonder if I got the oven sensors mixed up and put the one from the bad oven back in.
Pull it and check it.
If it measures 1080 it is probably OK.
If OK then odds are that the control board is bad.
Is there anything else it could possibly be? Would it be worth having a repair man check it out? Also, if it is the control board, where do I find a new one or am I expected to replace the wall ovens?
Thanks again.
Update:
Okay, the reason I was getting error codes is because I didn’t have both sensors connected at the same time. I switched the sensors and tested them again and they are both definitely good as the one from the bad oven when placed in the good oven worked fine.
So now I just need to know how to replace the board or if I should call a repair man because there may be a much cheaper break that I am not going to pick up on before I purchase the board, assuming I can replace the control board.
Also, what is a limit switch? A repair person told me to check that. I’m assuming it is just another term for the thermostat overload that I already replaced.
Also, what is a limit switch? A repair person told me to check that. I’m assuming it is just another term for the thermostat overload that I already replaced.
Yes it is. Also they are called thermal fuses.
Below is the control board.Note that AppliancePartsPros will let you return the board if it does not fix your problem. Most places will not accept electrical returns. Please see their return policy AP5801413
Below is the control board.Note that AppliancePartsPros will let you return the board if it does not fix your problem. Most places will not accept electrical returns. Please see their return policy
Thank you for all of your help denman! This has been a great learning experience for me. It really is fun to fix things yourself (assuming you are able to fix it) :eek:
I will let you know if the board fixes it and thank you for linking to the part and letting me know about ApplianceParts return policy. It may be awhile before I order the part for lack of $, but I will let you know if it fixes the problem when I do.
Okay, I have the control board and my oven is out of the wall, power off, and I can’t figure out how the control panel comes off. I don’t see any screws, so I’m assuming it just pops off, but don’t want to break it. Any ideas?
