One of the three plastic baffles mounted on the inner basket has fallen off. Apparently, the retaining screw came loose, then several of the plastic retainer tabs on the opposite end of the screw subsequently broke away. It appears to me that to replace these baffles, I need to gain access to the outside of the inner basket. (basket removal)
Now my questions: First, can I remove the inner basket from the rear of the machine by removing only the rear outer basket, motor, etc.?
Second, should I install a new tub gasket after separating the rear half from the front half of the outer basket?
Thank you in advance for your input. As soon as you respond, I will order the appropriate parts.
Lynn, et al.,
What is the part number for the new baffle replacement kit? AppliancePartsPro lists AP3769371, while what appears to be a sister site at ******** lists PT11308113. Neither of this look exactly like the baffle I have in my GHW9100LW2 washer. They look close, but the ones pictures taper to a much narrower profile that the one I have (which is almost rectangular by comparison).
I managed to snap one of mine off trying to snag an errant quarter. When I did so I also managed to jam the drum, so I am glad to see that the mounting screw was likely not installed (the mounting screw hole looks brand new). I freed up the drum by rotating it the other direction so all is well on that front.
If Lynn, Dave or Pegi could confirm the part number, or if Lynn can confirm that her baffle also looks different, I will be placing an order today. :)
Thank you everyone. My baffles look different as well. Must have done a design change. Looks like the new one’s tabs are in the same location. Leonard, do they behave differently than the old one’s or can you tell a difference? And yes the scree hole in my old baffles never had a screw in it. Talk about lazy work at the factory.
I have a Maytag MDB2400AWE that is leaking water around the pump shaft. I bought the impellor/seal assembly and removed the pump from the dishwasher. No problem. Now I’m trying to figure out how to actually remove the old impellor from the pump. Is it epoxyed to the shaft?
Washer is not draining water before it begins spin cycle. This is causing water to splash out of the TOP of tub. We replaced the belt and pump thinking this would fix the problem. We cannot get the knob off of the front control panel to replace the timer. Please give directions.
Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I always like to get a second opinion before I deliberately break something. I have one more question, if you don’t mind. Before I break off the impeller, do I need to remove the pump volute in order to get at the impeller? Or does the impeller have to come off before I can remove the volute?
Dave (dland): Your post was exactly the identification of the issue and the exact steps to fix it, including the missing retaining screws. Just finished the whole repair in about 15 minutes. The only additional step I had to take was to use a block of wood and a 5lb. mallet to punch the two remaining baffles loose so I could replace them. I took your step #6 seriously and used a magnetic phillips screwdriver to get the screws in place. The new baffles look a little different, but they only go in one direction, which is with the high part at the back of the drum. I’m sure that would have been a $350 service call. The hardest part was moving the dryer that was stacked on top.
Thanks again!
— Begin quote from dland;3493
Lynn "skysentinel",
If you have not already finished this repair, here’s good news: it’s EASY. Go ahead and order those parts. Get the kit with all three baffles – its likely that the plastic tabs on more than one of them have been damaged, because Whirlpool apparently never installed the retaining screws that hold the baffles in place. It appears to be a common problem.
Remove the three screws on the back of the washer for the lid.
Remove the lid.
A black rubber hose enters the outer drum top and center near the front. Gently remove it from the drum.
Through the resulting hole, you can reach the exact spot for inserting the retaining screws for the baffles.
One by one, replace the baffles (they drop into place, then need a little force to slide them forward into place) and rotate the inner drum so that the retaining screw hole is visible below the opening in the top of the outer drum.
(Without dropping the screws into the space between the drums like I did ), install the screws to retain the baffles.
Repeat for the other two.
Replace the hose and the lid and its screws and rest assured that you did something that even the Whirlpool assemblers didn’t do: install the baffle retaining screws.
If you have not already finished this repair, here’s good news: it’s EASY. Go ahead and order those parts. Get the kit with all three baffles – its likely that the plastic tabs on more than one of them have been damaged, because Whirlpool apparently never installed the retaining screws that hold the baffles in place. It appears to be a common problem.
Remove the three screws on the back of the washer for the lid.
Remove the lid.
A black rubber hose enters the outer drum top and center near the front. Gently remove it from the drum.
Through the resulting hole, you can reach the exact spot for inserting the retaining screws for the baffles.
One by one, replace the baffles (they drop into place, then need a little force to slide them forward into place) and rotate the inner drum so that the retaining screw hole is visible below the opening in the top of the outer drum.
(Without dropping the screws into the space between the drums like I did ), install the screws to retain the baffles.
Repeat for the other two.
Replace the hose and the lid and its screws and rest assured that you did something that even the Whirlpool assemblers didn’t do: install the baffle retaining screws.
Dave Land
— End quote
Friday night discovered broken baffle, going out of town on Monday morning, wife is hysterical. Now if I can find the part today everything will be back to normal. Many thanks to pioneers like you that skin their knuckles before anyone else and share the experience.
[SIZE=4]My Viking gas 6 burner cook top has an igniter problem. When each burner is turned on the igniter clicks continuously. I unplugged the igniter and have been lighting each burner as I need to cook. Do I need a repaiman to replace the part or is it easy enough to do on my own? I live in a small town and there is not a Viking dearler that I am aware of.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=4]Jackie[/SIZE]
I concur with Nassau1969 - with your instructions it was child’s play.
One must wonder why the people at Whirlpool did not figure out the correct part configuration in the first place, and then, having designed it with retaining screw holes, decided NOT to put them in. :mad: Reminds me of ALL THE DESIGN FAULTS OF MY NISSAN MURANO - but don’t get me started.
Thanks so much for taking the time to provide this easy, 15 minute fix.
Doug
dland said:
Lynn "skysentinel",
If you have not already finished this repair, here’s good news: it’s EASY. Go ahead and order those parts. Get the kit with all three baffles – its likely that the plastic tabs on more than one of them have been damaged, because Whirlpool apparently never installed the retaining screws that hold the baffles in place. It appears to be a common problem.
Remove the three screws on the back of the washer for the lid.
Remove the lid.
A black rubber hose enters the outer drum top and center near the front. Gently remove it from the drum.
Through the resulting hole, you can reach the exact spot for inserting the retaining screws for the baffles.
One by one, replace the baffles (they drop into place, then need a little force to slide them forward into place) and rotate the inner drum so that the retaining screw hole is visible below the opening in the top of the outer drum.
(Without dropping the screws into the space between the drums like I did ), install the screws to retain the baffles.
Repeat for the other two.
Replace the hose and the lid and its screws and rest assured that you did something that even the Whirlpool assemblers didn’t do: install the baffle retaining screws.
So if I drop the screws, what do I do? More specifically, how do I retrieve the broken plastic tabs that came off the broken baffle? My washer sounds like there is a loose quarter or dime in it when it spins. I wonder if it is the old screw or the plastic tabs.
Thanks in advance for help,
Tanya
(Without dropping the screws into the space between the drums like I did ), install the screws to retain the baffles.
), install the screws to retain the baffles.