I have a Spectra JBP79 and two nights prior a portion of the bake element started to sparkle, then burnt and I threw the breaker. After it cooled I touched the area and that area of the element fell apart.
I was going to order a new element when tonight I turned on the breaker so I could use the cooking top to boil some water and I checked the element and I saw the end where it had broke was starting to glow red. I pushed the off button for the over but it still was getting hot.
I am confused?:eek:
Thank you for your reply. Someone told me they thought it was the control board and to buy a new oven. Where would the relay be located so I could order that part also?
Again, thank you!
— Begin quote from denman;543320
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for General Electric JBP79WB2WW Electric range | AppliancePartsPros.com
Below is some FYI.
Stove elements use 240 volts. This is 2 120 volt supplies that are 180 degrees out of phase. The element does not use the Neutral or ground (unit’s frame).
Neutral and one of the 120 volt supplies are used to run the lights and the control panel. Also one side of the element is always hot (at 120 volts). The other side attaches to a set of relay contacts which are hooker to the other hot to turn the element on/off.
This relay is on the control board.
I hope I explained the above OK.
So your problem could be one of 2 things.
First is that the element is touching the unit’s frame so that it is getting 120 volts all the time.
This is probably your problem but I cannot be 100% sure.
Second the relay contacts welded together when the element failed.
But in this case the entire element would heat up. Again I cannot be 100% sure without being there.
In either case do not use the stove until the element is replaced as you could blow the electronics on the control board.
— End quote
Forgot to tell you that I already have the bake element on order, will be here Tuesday. The oven is 11 years old. I looked at where the element goes into the stove and all that looks fine, would the touching part be behind the mounting plate "there are two screws above?
— Begin quote from denman;543320
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for General Electric JBP79WB2WW Electric range | AppliancePartsPros.com
Below is some FYI.
Stove elements use 240 volts. This is 2 120 volt supplies that are 180 degrees out of phase. The element does not use the Neutral or ground (unit’s frame).
Neutral and one of the 120 volt supplies are used to run the lights and the control panel. Also one side of the element is always hot (at 120 volts). The other side attaches to a set of relay contacts which are hooker to the other hot to turn the element on/off.
This relay is on the control board.
I hope I explained the above OK.
So your problem could be one of 2 things.
First is that the element is touching the unit’s frame so that it is getting 120 volts all the time.
This is probably your problem but I cannot be 100% sure.
Second the relay contacts welded together when the element failed.
But in this case the entire element would heat up. Again I cannot be 100% sure without being there.
In either case do not use the stove until the element is replaced as you could blow the electronics on the control board.
— End quote
I attempted to remove the bake element and removed the two screws. The right side came out fine with the wire attached, the left side did not and the wire with the terminal stayed inside the oven.
If I get access to both wires and use my volt meter with leads across both wires I should not measure 220 volts across if the bake switch is not on. If I do then there is a problem with the actual replay on the control module and under the parts area it looks as though it is built in to the module.
I removed the back and what I found was the contacts on the broiler element and the surronding insulation were black, so not sure if the broiler element is also bad.
The contacts on the bake element look find.
Not sue what to do at this point.
Carl
— Begin quote from denman;543320
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for General Electric JBP79WB2WW Electric range | AppliancePartsPros.com
Below is some FYI.
Stove elements use 240 volts. This is 2 120 volt supplies that are 180 degrees out of phase. The element does not use the Neutral or ground (unit’s frame).
Neutral and one of the 120 volt supplies are used to run the lights and the control panel. Also one side of the element is always hot (at 120 volts). The other side attaches to a set of relay contacts which are hooker to the other hot to turn the element on/off.
This relay is on the control board.
I hope I explained the above OK.
So your problem could be one of 2 things.
First is that the element is touching the unit’s frame so that it is getting 120 volts all the time.
This is probably your problem but I cannot be 100% sure.
Second the relay contacts welded together when the element failed.
But in this case the entire element would heat up. Again I cannot be 100% sure without being there.
In either case do not use the stove until the element is replaced as you could blow the electronics on the control board.
— End quote
space issues in my new home are forcing me into the purchase of a stacking laundry set.
[SIZE=4]I need purchase recommendations! Gas dryer, btw.[/SIZE]
Hi
My freezer is not cooling past 27 degrees. Haven’t begun any troubleshooting, just finished clean up. How do I enter diagnostic mode on these units? Is there a manual that shows what these codes refer to?
Any input is greatly appreciated.
Remove the freezer back panel and describe the frost pattern, total heavy frost, or partial.
You have two choices here. One, you can purchase a stacked integrated unit, Frigidaire makes one and the same unit is also sold under the Kenmore brand.
The second choice is to purchase seperate washer dryer units that can be stacked. Whirlpoole and Frigidaire both make these types of units, along with a kit to stack them. They are bigger, but the combined cost will be more than the integrated unit.
Either choice should be fine, and they do come with gas dryers.
Is that the panel inside of the freezer?
Alright also found compressor not hot at all. Seems to not be kicking in. Have the run capacitor in hand to test. Will get back.
Well capacitor was charging, thermal switch, it was still intact and conducting, overload relay was closed. All good there.
Not getting 120v at compressor. I get it on the wires leaving the main board, but not after it travels up over the back of the compressor and into the sealed area of the unit and back down to the compressor front side.
Where does that wire harness travel to or is it run that way to keep it away from the compressor?
BTW ~ Let’s go ahead and disregard the 27 degree statement at the beginning of the topic. It was just the contents of the freezer keeping it at that temp.
Pull the motherboard, probably a bad solder joint in the back.
Perfect, something within my control. I appreciate your input.
Found a burned area on the back of the motherboard. It is under the biggest relay on the board that is connected to the line coming in to the board. The solder is completely gone at one leg of the relay. I don’t know if something caused this or if a cold solder joint could have caused high current at that spot. I sure don’t want to replace this board and it happens again. It seemed that everything was working except for the compressor. I hope I have enough time once it is all back together to measure the current draw to the compressor. Has anyone ran into this and replaced the board and all was okay?
The solder joint was too thin and acted as a fuse, re-solder usually fixes it.
It’s been running all night!
I had to extend the solder out to the trace because the area around the pin leg was missing.
Thanks Rich for the assistance.
Oh, and one more thing, do you know where on the motherboard does the contact on the filter housing come in? I need to bypass that. That’s been a PITA ever since we got that unit. I have my own filter installed in line and have used the water filter bypass plug but sometimes the plug cracks under all that stress. I could trace it out if not.
Pull the service sheet behind the control panel in the fridg. will show the wiring diagram.