My Bosch Dishwasher leaks water into the pan which eventually is enough to activate the float in the pan and run the discharge pump constantly. I found out where its leaking from. The leak is from the vent hole in the top right corner of the water inlet system. It only leaks when the dishwasher is draining. First off let me assure you that the drain hose is not blocked, I took it right off and blasted hot water through it. The inlet to the kitchen disposal (garborator) is not blocked and my sink drain is not blocked. I have rigged up my dishwasher to run in the middle of the kitchen floor so I can see what its doing. I have attached a link to a picture of my water inlet system, hopefully the link works.
I am hoping to find someone who is familiar with this water inlet system (WIS) part. The WIS is basically a plastic manifold that has 3 hoses attached to it. One hose is a braided nylon hose that handles the incoming fresh water. The fresh water comes into the WIS through the hose and goes through a channel and into another part. The other 2 hoses are discharge hoses. One comes from the discharge pump and goes to the WIS, the other goes from the WIS and goes to the sink drain. So basically the discharge water flows through a horseshoe shaped passage in the WIS and out to the sink. In the WIS, above the hose connection that goes to the sink, there is a black thing and I dont know what it is or does. I’m guessing that its some kind of relief valve incase the discharge hose to the sink is blocked. When my dishwasher drains, discharge water goes through the horseshoe shaped passage in the WIS and into the drain hose to the sink but it also goes into this other passage with the black thing, through a passage along the top of the WIS and into the same passage as the fresh incoming water uses to go into the fill valve system. This is when water comes out of the vent hole in the top right corner of the WIS and drips into the pan under the dishwasher. If this black part is in fact a relief valve, I guess its stuck open. As you can see from the picture, mine has some crud in it. If I replace my Water Inlet System, will my problems be fixed? For now I have just put some duct tape over the hole so I can use my dishwasher.
Thanks for any help you can provide, Jon
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I have a LG bottom refrig LBC22520SW. Pick it up from owner who stated that freezer works, refrig doesn’t. So far so good I say. Transported it, sat for 4 days, plugged it in. Started up, compressor runs, evap fan runs, condensor fan too. Yayyyy. All while keeping perfect temperature (38 and 10), at settings 4 and 4, for approx 2-3 days. More yayyy followed by a booooo.
Then refrig went to 55 degrees, freezer 0 degrees, with NO evap fan. The temp display is showing NO leds on at refrig side of temp display, and 6 and 7 lit on freezer side.
Checking back 12 hours-same, but…Somehow I managed to trigger the defrost circuit. I opened the door and held the door trigger a view times to see if I could make the evap fan work. (Evap fan no operation at all.) Compressor off, cond fan off, all quiet. That must have set the defroster to on, (or coincidence?) Hmmm… A few minutes later; pop, expanding, creaking, and sizzle. Yep That defrost is working. I’m happy 'bout that. In my path of understanding about these machines I read about ways to trick a defrost system by opening/closing the door switch in a certain sequence that makes defrost turn on. Did I inadvertently do that?
Is there a particular sequence in these LG’s to invoke defrost?
Approx 20-30 minutes later: Frig 60. Freezer 38. Compressor on. Evap fan off. Another hour later and we are at: Frig 58 Freezer 20 (and comin’ down), comp run, evap fan still off, condenser fan on ( that fan has aways worked properly)
Since the evap fan WAS working for first few days, that leads me to believe that fan system itself is working and the problem is that I am just not getting a signal to the fan now. Orrrrrrrrr, that the fan is freezing up causing fan to "freeze" up. Could that even happen? I banged on the back panel of freezer and that didn’t make fan to start.
Are there any sensors that could affect the evap fan? Would they work for a while and then quit?
There is a possibility that the main circuit board is faulty. But it works for the first 2-3 days, so I am inclined to rule that out.
And what does 6 and 7 lit mean? Previously, I had fixed another LG’s defrost system with a 567 error code. But, the LG manual doesn’t show what ONLY 6 and 7 lit would mean. Sooooooo?
I may un-plug it and let it sit for 36 hours and see if that resets the computer; plug it in, and make another observation of the temp display, temps, and evap fan operation at that time.
Any ideas to the evap fan being a non event now?