Frigidaire Gallery Series Dryer #GLEQ21E52S0
So my dryer got extremely hot, then the next load the display said “AD” and now has no heat.
I checked the Thermostat and Thermal Limiter (fuse) both had continuity, also the thermistor by the blower motor was running at 52K ohms, next I checked the Heating coils and the element itself I got 11K ohms.
I even checked the blower motor. So now Im lost why this thing isn’t working. Please help!
I reassembled and flipped my breaker a couple times and nothing. Could it possibly that the control board needs to be reset? I dont see anything on the web how to really diagnose or reset from the control board panel
Something is wrong with the heating element.
It should be around 12 ohms.
Unplug the unit and the wires from the heater and recheck it.
What could have happened is that the heater coil touched the heater case (grounded out) this can cause it to run hot and unregulated. It then over heater and finally melted open.
Something is wrong with the heating element.
It should be around 12 ohms.
Unplug the unit and the wires from the heater and recheck it.
What could have happened is that the heater coil touched the heater case (grounded out) this can cause it to run hot and unregulated. It then over heater and finally melted open.
Im reading everywhere that the heating element reading from 10-12 ohms is a normal range. Are you positive on those values? I also should mention I checked the heater relay to the board and pressed start on the dryer and the relay did not close I believe I should have gotten 0-0.1 ohms. See the attached photo when I pulled the control board.
Im reading everywhere that the heating element reading from 10-12 ohms is a normal range. Are you positive on those values?
Yes.
I also should mention I checked the heater relay to the board and pressed start on the dryer and the relay did not close I believe I should have gotten 0-0.1 ohms. See the attached photo when I pulled the control board.
I am assuming that you checked the relay contacts with both wires disconnected from it.
Yes it should have closed (0 ohms).
It does look like the one connection has overheated.
Perhaps both the heater and the control board are toast.
denman said:
Im reading everywhere that the heating element reading from 10-12 ohms is a normal range. Are you positive on those values?
Yes.
I also should mention I checked the heater relay to the board and pressed start on the dryer and the relay did not close I believe I should have gotten 0-0.1 ohms. See the attached photo when I pulled the control board.
I am assuming that you checked the relay contacts with both wires disconnected from it.
Yes it should have closed (0 ohms).
It does look like the one connection has overheated.
Perhaps both the heater and the control board are toast.
I am confused why you thin the heater is toast though. Can you ellaborate? I mean if its in range of resistance why would it be bad? Is it possible to repair the board without replacing it?
I am confused why you thin the heater is toast though. Can you ellaborate? I mean if its in range of resistance why would it be bad?
I think it is bad because you said "I checked the Heating coils and the element itself I got 11K ohms."
That is 11,000 ohms which is way too high.
Even if it measures correctly I would check if it is grounded.
Is it possible to repair the board without replacing it?
Yes it is possible but a bit of a gamble as manufacturers do not publish board schematics so it makes it hard to check if it is a relay problem or a problem with the electronics that control the relay.
If it is a relay problem you need to get the numbers off the relay and then get it from an electronics/electrical supply house (Digikey etc.).
Also some experience de-soldering/soldering electronic components woul be useful.
Note that looking at the one relay connector it is badly corroded and shows signs of the wire overheating.This will have to be cleaned up before you can use it on a new relay. You may even have to replace it.
A poor/loose connection acts like a resistance so when current passes through it heat is generated. This further degrades the connection and so on and so on till the connection fails.
denman said:
I am confused why you thin the heater is toast though. Can you ellaborate? I mean if its in range of resistance why would it be bad?
I think it is bad because you said "I checked the Heating coils and the element itself I got 11K ohms."
That is 11,000 ohms which is way too high.
Even if it measures correctly I would check if it is grounded.
Is it possible to repair the board without replacing it?
Yes it is possible but a bit of a gamble as manufacturers do not publish board schematics so it makes it hard to check if it is a relay problem or a problem with the electronics that control the relay.
If it is a relay problem you need to get the numbers off the relay and then get it from an electronics/electrical supply house (Digikey etc.).
Also some experience de-soldering/soldering electronic components woul be useful.
Note that looking at the one relay connector it is badly corroded and shows signs of the wire overheating.This will have to be cleaned up before you can use it on a new relay. You may even have to replace it.
A poor/loose connection acts like a resistance so when current passes through it heat is generated. This further degrades the connection and so on and so on till the connection fails.
I basically follwed this video. If you wanna skip to the heater element its 3:26 in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQiZ8OFJINM
And from all the research I found it seems to be accurate instructions. Thats why Im confused by your reply. Is this not right?
And from all the research I found it seems to be accurate instructions. Thats why Im confused by your reply. Is this not right?
Yes it is right but he says exactly what I am saying the heater should be 11 ohms, not 11K ohms.
I think we just have a communication problem.
11 ohms is 11 ohms
BUT
11K ohms is 11,000 ohms
Oh my bad. I thought the standard Ohm reader is set to K. Ok well then yes its 11 ohms. So you think its just the board then? Im going to just try a new relay if it does work then Ill buy a dryer. Seems dumb to fix a part worth almost as much as a new unit. They over price those control boards big time. Considering you can get a full on computer for that price almost.
