Morning.
We have a stackable which had worked great for the last two years and now for some reason the cold water stopped working and the hot took its place…we did all the things everyone recommend, from cleaning out the hoses and then the filters. Eventually we just switched the hoses and used cold for everything.
Last week a friend borrowed the washer and I forgot to mention the issue so she moved the knob to hot and now the water is back to its regular system…problem is we moved the hoses so now its hot water on the cold and hot water on all the cold rinses…
Before we go back and switch the hoses again, I’d like to fix the problem, but not sure on these how to go about troubleshooting (and where! none of the manuals I’ve found show it) either the temperature control switch or if its the actual knob on the front panel or if that is the same thing.
Any direction would be great…we’re pretty handy and can tackle a lot of things but I’d prefer to know some or have a manual to follow before we start taking this baby apart…
Hi. You will need to replace the temperature control [part]AP4261756[/part].
The water valve has a thermistor which senses incomming water temperature so the control will allow the water valve to mix in automatic temperature control wash.
Water valve [part]AP3129717[/part]. Thank You.
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HI Sardihome. The temperature control can be accessed from behind the control panel. Remove power. Remove console end caps. Remove knob.Then you will be able to lift the control panel assy. up and off the whole assy. off the rear frame. There is a lift/locking tab on the back of the switch body thet you lift out of a hole.Then twist slightly and pull out from the back of the panel. Remove and replace the wiring connector.
For R & R the water valve;
Then you need to remove the top. Approx. 3 " in from each front corner are locks. You use a putty knife from the front and push in the center of the clip and lift each top corner up. Then you will be able to pull fwd. on the top and lift up. This will give access to the inner lid switch connector. Unhook this from the control panel. Then lay the top assy. to the side. Then remove the front panel by removing 2-1/4" screws from the inside of the front panel. These screws will be approx. 1’ down in from the top. After these screws are removed, you will be able to lift up on the front panel off the 2-inner lt. and Rt. clips. Set the front panel aside. Unhook the wires to the water valve. Take note or picture of the water valve wires first. Then remove outer supply hot / cold hose’s. Remove the water valve to tub hose (air flume hose). In the middle of the water valve is a 1/4" mount screw, remove this. Then you lift the water valve up and pull out from the inside of the cabinet. Reassemble in reverse. Thank You.
I noticed the issue first when the water line running to my front door panel froze up (it is freezing inside the door panel in front of the freezer). Tried the youtube fixes foir opening the door and running warm water up the hose… and it would clear for about 6 hrs then freeze again. I noticed that my freezer was "extra cold" so I tried to lower the freezer temp on the digital LED thermostat (mounted in fridge side) but it didn’t make a difference.
Next google steps led me to here to the Defrost thermostat. It was affordable so I ordered and installed. Took me about 20 minutes. I noticed medium frost build up on the coils, no loose ice anywhere back there blocking the fan or the path to the vent to the fridge.
Once installed I powered back up and gave it 30 minutes. I came back and found that the HI warning was on the digital LED thermostat warning me that the freezer temp was too high. I assumed that is because it lost a lot of cooling during the repair, because when I opened the freezer it was starting to get cold again. Checked my water line and it was working… yay!
Slept on it and checked again the next morning to find the freezer super cold again and the water line frozen. To be clear, the ice maker works fine since the water line for that is separate and located on the back of the fridge. The drinking water line runs up through the front door and that is where it keeps freezing because the Freezer side is super cold. I dont think there are any water line issues, I think it is just a symptom of the super cold freezer.
Chatted with a pro here at APP and they guessed the evap motor was out. I didn’t own a multimeter so I just ordered the motor part. Before I opened the box I pulled the panel off and discovered the motor is running fine. So I returned it for RMA. Chatted with a pro again and she advised I test the heater coil for continuity.
So I bought a multimeter and followed the directions to test continuity on the heater coil. It has continuity… so now I’m not sure what the next step is. I have ruled out the following parts.
-defrost thermostat
-evap motor
-heater coil
Could anything else be causing the Freezer to run super cold and (presumably) not defrost. As I mentioned before, lowering the temp on the digital LED thermostat does not affect the freezer temp at all. That might be a clue.
Well as a followup, I found a user that put some insulation on the back of the Freezer compartment door where the cold air was hitting it.
I had some "Peel and Seal" sticky aluminum strips so I applied that to the inside of the door right here the water line is located and within 30 minutes the line unfroze and is working again.
I guess the issue is resolved mostly but Im still curious as to why the freezer isnt defrosting as intended.
