I have an Amana ARB9059CS bottom mount freezer refrigerator. About two weeks ago, it iced right up. I took the back panel off and defrosted everything. The drain to the drain pan was not plugged, and the melt water drained fine.
I tested the defrost timer, the defrost thermostat and the defrost heater and everything passed. The timer was advancing, the thermostat was closing when cold, and the heater showed 32 OHMs. I also burned my finger when I touched it during a defrost cycle!
I figured it must be the timer, so I replaced it, and about a week later everything iced up again. I retested the components, and they all still appear to be working properly.
My only other thought is it could be the thermostat on the threshold of failing? Should I just replace it anyways?
You may want to leave the new timer in the unit especially if the unit is 10 years plus, over time the contacts get pitted and fail.
In most cases supply houses will not take an electrical device back once it has been installed so if you are going to try to return it, call them first rather than waste your time pulling it out.
You were right. They would not take back the timer. I replaced the thermostat, and the fridge has been working good as new! Even though I have an extra timer, it was still a much cheaper repair than calling in a technician!
Yes, much cheaper because they probably would have replaced the timer the same as you did and then hit you up with a second charge when they came out and replaced the thermostat.
I am replacing the tube bearing and cannot get the old collar off the the transmission. I am replacing the water seal as well. Any suggestions on how to get the old collar off?
I thought I needed center seal grease for this job (replacing the water seal and tube bearing). Where would is use the grease?
Use a generous supply of WD-40 or other rust buster. If you hsve to use force, make sure you don’t damage the transmission tube. Once the old bearing sleeve is off, take emery and clean the shaft where the replacement sleeve will go. Don’t overdo it; just get it clean enough that the new sleeve fits into place. It doesn’t need to freely spin: it needs a little friction to work properly. I highly recommend you also replace the tub and stem support along with the new bearing. If you do, there is usually enough lubrication on the seal to make it work. Here’s the part number for the kit. [part]AP244279[/part]
I just replaced my tub/seal bearing on my maytag top loader last month, I went on line for very detailed instructions on this job, and they were not correct for my machine, be sure you are turning it in the correct direction, the part will come with limited instructions… mine was lefty loosy, but very hard to break loose (especially after going the wrong way)… I used a pipe wrench and a basher. the new part came greased,
I have a Maytag dishwasher that gives off an electrical smell when it runs and then won’t rinse during the rinse portion. Even though the timer continues it wont drain the water. I have to turn it off and wait for it to drain any water. The fill valve is working but it will not drain or rinse. Any idea’s.
If unplugging the machine stops it then you have a control problem.
If you have to shut it off at the tap then it is probably a water valve problem.
Also check that you have good water flow out of the hose, run it into a pail.
Some hose washers have a screen filter which may be partially plugged, also they can collapse internally. While you have the hose off check/clean the screen filter on the input side of the machine’s water valve.
On thing also to note is that if the water supply has a burst protection device, they also can cause problems.
The reason for the above checks is that sometimes low flow/pressure will cause a valve to not seal correctly.
If all OK then you probably need a new water valve.
quote=Tom Coop Having a similar problem finding water in drum several days after use mach. 8 yrs old. Where is the water shut off valve. I have replaced the drain pump that was a dream thanks
