Connecting a new revised starter relay

Refrigerator & Freezer Repair
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[SIZE=2]Hello all,

After tech removed the original starter relay he did not put the old one back ( long story I was’nt around but it was a bad one ). I now have the new version replacement and am at stand still as to the wiring hook up. I have seen the schematic but still unsure as to how to read it. I believe I also have a run capacitor on this unit which leaves me with 4 wires to connect to the starter relay with only 3 spades. I’m sure one of these wires must be ommitted and the others attached. From the harness the blue and orange wire also continue to the condenser fan. Then orange and white from the run capacitor.

Can anyone help???
I took some pics to help.

Thanks,
gottado
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— Begin quote from gottado;41501

Please click one of the Quick Reply icons in the posts above to activate Quick Reply.

— End quote

:confused: No reply?

3

Still not sure as to hook up per Icehouse’s post…sorry

Again there are four wires each with a female disconnect:

One Blue and one Orange from Harness coming down from ADC pairing off to the relay and continuing to condenser fan.

Also one White and one Orange coming from Run Capacitor

The new Overload/Relay has only 3 terminals. Do I double up the orange wires at relay???

Instruction sheet for new relay kit is attached.

12002783

Thanks

4

Used 3in1 many times. Keep one with a power cord to quick check compressors.

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— Begin quote from magician59;41506

What do you think about using one of those 3-N-1 "hard start" kits on an older unit?

— End quote

I’ve read they are not recomended

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— Begin quote from gottado;41511

Still not sure as to hook up per Icehouse’s post…sorry

Again there are four wires each with a female disconnect:

One Blue and one Orange from Harness coming down from ADC pairing off to the relay and continuing to condenser fan.

Also one White and one Orange coming from Run Capacitor

The new Overload/Relay has only 3 terminals. Do I double up the orange wires at relay???

Instruction sheet for new relay kit is attached.

12002783

Thanks

— End quote

Nothing showed up. However the blue lead from ADC connects to the top (C) terminal and [COLOR=Blue]blue [COLOR=Black]lead from condenser fan.
The [COLOR=DarkOrange]orange [COLOR=Black]lead from the ADC connects to the terminal on the left (R) and the [COLOR=DarkOrange]orange [COLOR=Black]lead from the capacitor doubles up on this terminal, as well as the [COLOR=DarkOrange]orange [COLOR=Black]lead from the condenser fan.
The white lead from the capacitor attaches to the terminal on the left (S) :slight_smile:
[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR]

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Bozos have the pin configuration "upside down" So now [COLOR=Blue]blue [COLOR=Black]is on bottom (C), [COLOR=DarkOrange]orange [COLOR=Black]is on right (R) White is on left (S).
All blue wires [COLOR=Black]together, and all [COLOR=DarkOrange]orange wires [COLOR=Black]together. :)[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR]
[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR]

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icehouse said:
Used 3in1 many times. Keep one with a power cord to quick check compressors.
We must have been trained by the same person. I have one on a test cord, too.

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gottado said:
I’ve read they are not recomended
They’re not recommended for units that are still covered by warranty. Some techs believe they are a waste of money, saying that a compressor that needs one is already on its deathbed. I believe if using a 3-N-1 can buy a customer another year of service, it is worth the cost.

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I’m a big believer in using test cords. I use them to test water valves, motors, pumps and compressors. They’re great for quick diagnoses.

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Never heard of an Annie Hermetic Analyzer. I just ohm out the windings.

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