My whirlpool glass top stove "Cooktop On" light stays on after I turn control knob to off position and does not go off until I unplug the stove. Largest cooking element stays heated - the other three stays cool.
Very likely the problem is a bad infinite switch for this burner. If you need the correct part number, post winch burner exactly is acting up.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Whirlpool WFE361LVB0 30" ELECTRIC CERAN FREESTANDING RANGE SELF CLEAN CONVE | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.
— Begin quote from Gene;658457
Very likely the problem is a bad infinite switch for this burner. If you need the correct part number, post winch burner exactly is acting up.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Whirlpool WFE361LVB0 30" ELECTRIC CERAN FREESTANDING RANGE SELF CLEAN CONVE | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.
— End quote
Hello Gene, the Front Right burner is acting up. It is the large one with single element (vs dual element on the Front Left burner). I looked at the diagrams and there are three part numbers: Large Surface is AP3095444, Small Surface AP3095448, and Infinite Switch AP4365154.
The correct right front burner infinite switch AP3095444
Gene.
Good day Gene, I received the part (AP3095444) and installed it. Stove is OK again. Thank you Sir!
You are welcome. I’m glad it’s up and running.
Gene.
Hi Gene,
My whirlpool "cooktop ON" light stays always on now. But I do not know how to find out which infinite switch fails. Can you please tell me how to test and find it out?
Thanks,
Wei
Hi Wei,
What is the complete model number of the cooktop?
Gene.
the model number of my whirlpool range is: WFE361LVB0
Hi Gene,
[LEFT][COLOR=#000000]The complete model number of my whirlpool range is: WFE361LVB0
Thanks,
Wei
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Unplug the range. Remove the control panel rear cover. You have three identical switches and one switch for the dual element.
Start with the identical switches. All switches must be off. Remove the wire from the "P" terminal and check for continuity between the terminals "P" & "L1". Any of the switches with continuity reading is bad.
The dual element switch has to be tested for continuity between the terminals "S1" & "S2".
Post the results.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-whirlpool-wfe361lvb0.html
Gene.
Hi Gene,
Thanks for the instructions on how to testing for continuity of the switches. So far I have tested the identical switches and found the right front one has readings while both rear ones have no readings. For testing the dual element switch, should I also remove the wire from the "P" terminal first, then test the continuity between the terminals "S1" & "S2"? or do not need to remove the wire from the "P" terminal?
Thanks,
Wei
This switch does not have "P" terminal. Remove the wire form the "S1" or "S2" terminal.
Gene.
Thanks Gene!
You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene.
The issue went away after shut off and on the braker in the electric panel a few times. Although I suspect one of the identical switch was failed after having tested all the 4 identical switches and found the right front one has readings. But for now I would keep this way till the "Cooktop On" stay on again, then will change it. Thanks Gene for the great help!