I have Kitchen Aid Dishwasher KUDI230B0 where the soap dispenser "fan" on the door stays shut and does not open to dispense soap during wash cycle.
Don’t know if the dispenser is the problem or a screw or another part is the problem.
Dispenser is discontinued, so I can’t order it. Help!
— Begin quote from wrightc;307722
I have Kitchen Aid Dishwasher KUDI230B0 where the soap dispenser "fan" on the door stays shut and does not open to dispense soap during wash cycle.
Don’t know if the dispenser is the problem or a screw or another part is the problem.
Dispenser is discontinued, so I can’t order it. Help!
— End quote
The bi metal switch assembly for the cup is,
[part]AP3041715[/part]
You could remove the dispenser from the door assembly,
Clean and lube the moving parts,
Install the new part.
Good Luck,
— Begin quote from Joe / APP Team;307791
The bi metal switch assembly for the cup is,
[part]AP3041715[/part]
You could remove the dispenser from the door assembly,
Clean and lube the moving parts,
Install the new part.
Good Luck,
— End quote
THANKS!!
Is this something that a Happy Homeowner could do or do I need to call a local company that services Kitchen Aid Dishwashers???
— Begin quote from wrightc;307853
THANKS!!
Is this something that a Happy Homeowner could do or do I need to call a local company that services Kitchen Aid Dishwashers???
— End quote
If you’ve got basic skills and basic hand tools,
You’ll be fine.
Just remember, *** turn the POWER OFF*** to the dishwasher before you start.
Remove the inner door liner from the door asembly, carefully.
Disconnect the wires to the detergent cup, label the wires, so you can reattach them to the new switch.
Remove the bi metal switch assembly.
Soak the complete assembly in hot water and dry thoroughly.
You may want to test the door operation,before you install the new switch.
You may also want to put a couple of drops of oil (3in1,is decent)on the shaft and let it migrate down, into the housing.
Install the switch.
Reverse the procedure and test the unit for operation.
Good Luck,
I opened up my door and checked out the electrical circuit – the blue wire was running power (test lite lit up when grounded), but the yellow/black wire connected to the other side never completed a circuit when I ran thru complete cycle with circuit tester connected. Wires all appear intact and properly connected. Could it still be a problem with the bimetal assmpbly, or is the switch/wiring harness?
— Begin quote from jeffepops;357643
I opened up my door and checked out the electrical circuit – the blue wire was running power (test lite lit up when grounded), but the yellow/black wire connected to the other side never completed a circuit when I ran thru complete cycle with circuit tester connected. Wires all appear intact and properly connected. Could it still be a problem with the bimetal assmpbly, or is the switch/wiring harness?
— End quote
Jeff,
The Blue wire, is the neutral leg of the motor and detergent cup of the bi metal, you were probably reading the voltage from the motor winding.
The Yellow/Black wire is the power to the bi metal from the timer.
Try this,
With a multi meter, check for a resistance reading across the two terminals, with the wires off, on the bi metal switch, on RK1 scale on your meter. You should have a reading, if the switch is good.
Check the yellow / black wire from the detergent cup bi metal to the timer connection, for broken, loose, etc.
Leave the yellow/black wire off the bi metal switch, start the dishwasher at the main wash cycle, approximately 4or5 minutes into the wash cycle there should be 120 VAC on the yellow/black wire, If no voltage you’d have a bad timer or wire.
I’m sure you’ll know what to do, and the part needed from there.
So, I ordered the new bimetal switch and installed it – the cup does not open, no voltage to the switch. Should I just replace the timer? The yellow/black and blue wires both look to be in perfect condition. Is it possible the timer works for all the other cycles, but does not send current to bimetal switch? Thanks
— Begin quote from jeffepops;411539
So, I ordered the new bimetal switch and installed it – the cup does not open, no voltage to the switch. Should I just replace the timer? The yellow/black and blue wires both look to be in perfect condition. Is it possible the timer works for all the other cycles, but does not send current to bimetal switch? Thanks
— End quote
Jeff,
Yes, it’s possible the timer increment could be bad, but that’s not a common occurence.
You should have the voltage at the switch for 60 to 90 seconds, and a couple of minutes into the main wash cycle, is that how you tested the circuit and voltage ?
If you’re sure the wires are OK, and with the new switch( I wouldn’t expect that to be bad) then go with a new timer.
Yes, I ran the normal wash cycle. I don’t have a multimeter, but I did clip a simple 120/240v circuit tester to the yellow/black and blue leads. It did not light up at all over the first 5 minutes of the normal cycle, and when plugged into the switch, the switch did not open. I had the panel off of the door, so was able to observe that nothing moved anywhere. I ran it several times to be certain. Can’t think of what else I should have done. Thanks!
— Begin quote from jeffepops;411608
Yes, I ran the normal wash cycle. I don’t have a multimeter, but I did clip a simple 120/240v circuit tester to the yellow/black and blue leads. It did not light up at all over the first 5 minutes of the normal cycle, and when plugged into the switch, the switch did not open. I had the panel off of the door, so was able to observe that nothing moved anywhere. I ran it several times to be certain. Can’t think of what else I should have done. Thanks!
— End quote
Jeff, based on that, I would have to think you do have a bad timer,
Were it me, I would attach a 120 VAC test cord to the terminals of the bimetal switch, plug it into an outlet and make sure the bi metal switch worps and releases the dispenser door, first.
Thanks. I will do just that!
Jeffrey
— Begin quote from jeffepops;412176
Thanks. I will do just that!
Jeffrey
— End quote
Jeffrey,
Good Deal,
When you’re done let us know how things went.
Okay, I am totally confused… Ran the test and when I plugged in, the switch worked! So, problem is timer or wiring. Clamped one voltage tester lead to yellow/black wire and other one to the green ground wire. Ran dishwasher. Light came on at beginning of normal cycle – so timer did send voltage to bimetal switch – but switch did not open (and in several subsequent tries). I pulled the wiring harness from the timer, put it back. On second hookup of tester (one lead to yellow/black, other to ground wire), the circuit breaker popped. Took off leads, reset breaker and… now the switch is working!!! For how long, I do not know. Maybe some loose wiring…Go figure.
— Begin quote from jeffepops;416252
Okay, I am totally confused… Ran the test and when I plugged in, the switch worked! So, problem is timer or wiring. Clamped one voltage tester lead to yellow/black wire and other one to the green ground wire. Ran dishwasher. Light came on at beginning of normal cycle – so timer did send voltage to bimetal switch – but switch did not open (and in several subsequent tries). I pulled the wiring harness from the timer, put it back. On second hookup of tester (one lead to yellow/black, other to ground wire), the circuit breaker popped. Took off leads, reset breaker and… now the switch is working!!! For how long, I do not know. Maybe some loose wiring…Go figure.
— End quote
Jeff,
That happens, sometimes,
Makes you wander ???
Good Luck,