I aquired this dishwasher recently and he said it was only used a handful of times and its almost new.
After hooking everythign up i can get power to the key pad but the start button wont work. I have reset the keypad got all the lights to light up and it starts a mini cycle flashing back and forth from normal wash to heat dry running for a few minutes on each but not filling al lthe way up jsut filling for maybe 10 seconds. then it cuts off after the 3rd or 4th back and forth on the heat dry. i can select a setting, and a turbo wash/heat dry etc. but nothing happens when i push start.
i pulled the thermal fuse out and it has continuity it reads at 1.5 then drops to .5 on the digital ohm meter, so i think its good, not real sure what it means though.
could it be a keypad issue or a control board issue?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
It sounds more like a control board problem more than a keyboard problem but that is just a guess.
Perhaps the attached tech sheet will be useful to you.
Why the meter reads the fuse as 1.5 to 0.5 could be just a low battery in the meter though usually meters have a low battery indicator. Could be your meter leads are dirty. Short the meter leads together so you can tell where true zero is.
You could try the following but it is a biot of a long shot.
Connector Cleaning / Checking
Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.
So i took the control pannel off and pulled the control board off adn ther was a cockroach sittin on 3 or the terminals for the main chip and roach poop over everything (from previous owner i got it from last week).
So everything is cleaned up so ill check tonight adn see if that was the problem.
The ohm meter has plenty of battery so im not sure about the thermo fuse
Ill update tomorrow if it seems to be the problem, fingers crossed.
Well it wasent the cocoroach so i am stumped now, it wil lstill reset and do its mini cycle and fill with about 2 cups of water flash back and fourth from normal wash to somethign else but then cuts off, i can still select cycles but start button wont work. dang, and its probably not worth having a rapair guy look at it, i dont know. crap crap crap.
So you more likely leaning towards the control board rather than the panel.
I can give that a try, hopefully it works.
I wonder if sears has a return policy for the control board if thats not the problem.
Is there any way to test the control board to confirm?
Yea cant get into diagnostics i believe, so i will check hte control panel with the meter, ill start with the start button since thats the only one that doesent seem to work and go from there. then i gues it will be time to change out the control board.
I really appreciate your help, tryign to read the diagrams is almost like chinese but im figuring it out.
Once you read a few wiring diagrams it will all fall in place.
I used to work on some fairly complex gear with lots of wiring and multiple wiring diagrams. A set of color pencils helped trace which wire was which and where they were going.
Testing the p1 conector on the ribbon by going p4- p12 (or p11,p13,p14) and pressingthe corrisponding button i get nothing, same as p1-3 to p1-11-p13 the guide says i should get continuity (i think) by doing this, i got nothing through the ribbon.
Now if i do the same on the pins on the control board than i get continuity that way through the board.
It does look like there is some browning on the ribbon on if i have the order correct p1-11 p1-12 p1-13 but i tested continuity from the plug to the base before ot goes into the insideand i have continuity there .
So if i have continuity through the control board does that mean its going through and its working and i dont have continuity through the control panel ribbon does that mean its bad?
I will beat this thing dangit.
also last night i did a different reset, normally i was reseting it by going heated dry sani rinse and it would only fill abotu a cup in the bin, last night i reset with heated dry normal wash and it filled full and sounded like it ran great then kicked over to quick rinse for a few then back to normal for a few and back and fourth a few times till it stopped.
Hi - I have a Kenmore gas dryer that is not working in either the Auto Dry setting or the timed dry setting. In auto dry, the drum will spin, but it will only blow cold air, and the timer will not advance. In the timed dry setting, the same happens, except the timer will advance. I have checked the components listed by Gene on the "No Heat on Gas Dryer" thread with a digital multi-meter. Here’s the readings that I found on each part:
Thermal fuse - 1.5
Cycling thermostat - 1.5 across the 2 recessed terminals
Cycling thermostat - 7 (with the meter on 20k) across the 2 upper terminals
Igniter - 66.5 (I stuck the leads of the meter into the terminals in the clip)
Flame sensor - 1.5
2 prong gas valve coil - 1280
3 prong gas valve coil - 564 on the outer 2
3 prong gas valve coil - 1400 on the left 2 when looking down at it
3 prong gas valve coil - 1950 on the right 2 when looking down at it
I had to set the meter on the 2000 setting for the gas valve coils.
I’m not sure if any of these are bad, or if I should be looking elsewhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
After doing a search here and on other websites I decided to try replacing the gas valve coils, even though they seemed to test OK. When I would start the dryer, the flame would come on one or two times, then nothing - only the glow of the igniter. Apparently that is what happens when they are going bad. This has done the trick and it is all working now.
As a bonus, I found $2.30 when I cleaned out the innards of the dryer. Mostly dimes. And I found a mysterious key.
