My whirlpool dryer isn’t heating and no matter how much time I set the dial for, it stays exactly where I set it and doesn’t ever decrease,so even tho its not heating, it would run for hours unless I turn it off. Is this possibly a timer issue or heating element?
[SIZE="3"]dquerbach[/SIZE]
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=242032
Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%203406688.pdf
Try it in timed dry if the timer now advances odds are that the heater element is blown or you have a power problem.
First try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker and the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.
If this does nothing.
Measure the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the unit’s terminal strip to ensure they are properly connected and none of them have burned off
If OK
Plug the unit in and check the voltage at the terminal strip. This is just in case you have a bad line cord.
Be careful 240 volts is lethal.
Unplug the unit, unplug one side of the heater element and measure it with heater should be around 10 ohms. Often you can see that the heating coil is broken.
In timed dry the timer motor gets power directly from one side of the line.
In auto modes it gets power through the heating coil when the coil is turned off. So if the heater is blown the timer will also not advance.
Note: That the 5,000 ohm resistor drops the 240 volt heater voltage to 120 for the timer motor.
I would try flipping the breaker first, then the visual connection inspection then the heater check. That way you do not have to mess with the 240 volts, so it is safer.
I appreciate the reply and all of the detail!
The dryer is 120V, so I’m not sure if the line voltage would be a part of the issue, but you do bring up some other possibilities that are worth exploring.
I’m going to print both documents and check out the dryer and see where that leads me. Maybe I can nail down exactly what the problem is and then get the correct replacement part(s).
Again, thanks for the info.
I see from the wiring diagram that the reason we have the 120V model is that it’s the gas version and likewise has no 5K ohm resistor. I see there isn’t much explanation on the gas portion (ignitor, flame sensor), but I’ll poke around and see what I can find as far as what may be the issue, here.
[SIZE="3"]LeeS[/SIZE]
Best to start your own thread using "Post New Topic"
Be sure to include the Make and Model and a description of the problem/symptoms.
— Begin quote from denman;217255
[SIZE=3]LeeS[/SIZE]
Best to start your own thread using "Post New Topic"
Be sure to include the Make and Model and a description of the problem/symptoms.
— End quote
…thanks, I will.