I replaced the thermal fuse and it ran for 4 to 6 hours and thermal fuse blew agian. What else could be wrong. I think it might be the t-stat hilimit, because the heating elment looks fine and checks out fine. Could anybody confirm this for me.
Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=HYE3658AYW
I replaced the thermal fuse and it ran for 4 to 6 hours and thermal fuse blew agian. What else could be wrong. I think it might be the t-stat hilimit, because the heating elment looks fine and checks out fine.
See below
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it. Check for tell tale arc marks on the inside of the heater case could be it sags when hot then returns to normal when it cools down.
If the heater is OK then I would also replace the hi-limit thermostat as this should have regulated the temperature so that the fuse did not blow.
You still have to find the cause.
It could be:
A dirty/loose blower wheel
A dirty vent system or it’s outside louvers are not opening.
A bad cycling (control) thermostat. Note this is a 4 connector thermostat.
One set is the contacts. The other set is the internal heater, should be around 25,000 ohms. This is used to give you different heat settings.
Also check the internal seals re: drum etc. The thermostat is on the blower so if it can suck in cool air past a seal then it will run the dryer too hot, though the hi-limit should have prevented the fuse from blowing.