I am really hoping someone can help me figure out what is wrong with my dryer. The other day I found my dryer to be very very hot on outside when it has not been used for at least 3 days!
I have since noticed that this problem happens only when the Timer is turned on (either autosensing or timed mode) but the on/off button is NOT pressed, I can hear the heating coil heat up and heat distributes through out the dryer , again WITHOUT me pressing the on button. At that point, the heat is on, but the blower and the drum are not on. I can then simply press the ON button and everything turns on (blower /drum) and it works as normal with the timer spinning down to off /clothes dry - and then the dryer is fully off/ no "heater on" issue when timer in off position.
So everything seems to work as normal, except this apparent new disconnect between timer and heating coil and on/off button (very dangerous, I keep it unplugged) -but have no idea where to look - and can use your expert advice.
If I have left out any details you may need, I will promptly reply to your questions - Thank you in advance , Rob
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run when the motor is not turning.
It would also be a good idea to check the thermal cut-off and high limit thermostats on the heater. Both should be 0 ohms at room temperature.
Running the heater without air flow may have blown one or both of them.
FYI: the motor has a centrifugal switch the closes when the motor gets close to operating speed. This connects in the heating coil and is supposed to ensure that the heater does not come on till there is air flow.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.