Dryer only runs when start button is pressed

Dryer Repair
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1

this dryer has had this symptom since we bought it. When it first started to "act up" it would start working after it had time to cool off it seemed. then it would work normally, but now it has stopped working altogether unless you hold down the start button, but no heat. Heating element was replaced about a year ago…:confused: I have jumpered all the switches I could find that had 2-wires and still nothing. The door switch has 3-wires going to it…which wires do I jumper together to bypass the door switch? I beleive they were white, blue and brown.

3

Here is a tech sheet
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%203979101.pdf

Door switch is white to blue

Here is a good site with additional info
http://www.applianceaid.com/whirlpool-dryers.html
Especially #40

On your unit look at the lower left hand corner, it shows the PTS switch (push to start), the board then senses this and activates the Motor Relay which keeps it running.

I would suggest you purchase a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity

  1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
  2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
  3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.

4

I already have a Fluke 83 so I will start testing components as I go through the Tech sheet tests…stay tuned.

5

I have tried to perform the "Factory Test" as per the tech sheet…it will not enter the "Test Mode" and NO beep is heard…is this any indication of an Electronic Control Assy. problem/failure??:confused: Do I need to go any further in the testing of other components now?

Thanks in advance for the help you have already given me, it is much appreciated!!

6

It does look like the board is shot but I would do the other tests/checks on the 48 volt DC and the thermistor.

You want to narrow it down as much as possible before getting a replacement board.

7

To get to the motor relay to check for the 48 vdc, how much of the dryer do i take apart? I can see part of the motor looking in thru the bottom access panel behind the duct work…do I take off the side or do I have to remove the drum?

8

As far as I know it is all in the control console

9

Went to the Sears parts store and researched the electronic control assy. It is $121 plus shipping and not in stock, so I am going to be into this repair half the cost of a new dryer at Sears…hmmmmm, I am leaning towards the new dryer for now…I could go craigslist.org and get one with other problems and no warranty.

10

[SIZE=3]The new circuit board or electronic control assembly arrived this evening, tore apart the control panel, removed the bad one and install the new one…it works!! :smiley: We are back in business…Many thanks to Denman and "Appliance Parts Pros" website for your guidance through this repair too!! [/SIZE]