ok so my dryer over heated last week so i took it apart cleaned really well replaced both thermostats checked all the wiring replace the belt and the drum guides and one of the felt liners that got a little melted put it back together and it ran great for about 8 minutes then it blew the thermal fuse again(brand new) I know it was that because i jumped it and it worked good again any ideas did i miss something thank you :mad:
well it did it again ran for an hour last night then this morning for 15 minutes and blew the fuse again im stumped!!!:mad:
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=46727
Could be your heating coil grounded again.
Once a coil has bent it has a memory so you heat it up a few times and it may go back to where it was.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal (fuse) cut-off blows.
The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal fuse (Item 5 in Section 5).
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.
Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.
If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it’s contacts may not be opening (welded shut)
ok i checked element it was at 12 ohm, i did replace the 2 thermostats from the kit and new belt and felt and guides. i jumped the fuse and it works ok it seems to be cycling ok is there a thermostat i missed the ones i replaced are right above and next to the heating element perhaps(thermal fuse and safety thermostat) is it the t stat cycle?on the parts diagram
is there a way to check the other t stats that i just replaced, well the small one is blown ,but the hi stat? when i jump the fuse it cycles on and off it seems to be maintaining a good heat inside the dryer but for some reason it keeps blowing that small thermal fuse,oh and another question,if the hi limit safety thermostat is blown(it Is new) when i jump the two wires(for thermal fuse)would the dryer still work?when I jump them like I said it works good, cycles and doesnt seem to be getting to hot,not that i would run it like that all the time.the only thing i did not replace was the thermostat,i was not sure how to check it.
is there a way to check the other t stats that i just replaced, well the small one is blown ,but the hi stat?
You could heat up the metal face on a stove element to see if the contacts open. I use my soldering gun to heat them up. Tells you that it does open but does not tell you at what temperature it is opening.
another question,if the hi limit safety thermostat is blown(it Is new) when i jump the two wires(for thermal fuse)would the dryer still work?
Yes, if the problem was that the hi-limit thermostat contacts were welded together.
But as I said in my previous post the hi-limit is a safety device so if the unit is operating correctly it should never have to open.
when I jump them like I said it works good, cycles and doesnt seem to be getting to hot,not that i would run it like that all the time.the only thing i did not replace was the thermostat,i was not sure how to check it.
Whatever is happening it seems to be intermittent.
If you are sure that the heating coil is not touching it’s case (grounding) and that the air flow through and out of the machine is good then I would replace the operating thermostat. They can intermittently not open when they should.
At least that is my best guess.
The norm for a grounded element is that it will weld itself to the sde of the case due to the current flow but in rare occurrences they can return to normal when the element cools off. Check for any burn mark or evidence of the element grounding to the case.
ok I appreciate your help here.
Now Im wondering after I put all back together and it blew the thermal cutoff fuse (the small one) thats when i noticed the coils bent and touching so i fixed the coils but then i put in the other thermal cutoff fuse (that came in the kit) wich is for a gas dryer.could the fuse for a gas dryer be set to go off at a lower temp?if mot then i suppose i have to find out why i keep blowing the thermal safety fuse.Is there a way to check the ohms in the thermostats?and the high limit switch
could the fuse for a gas dryer be set to go off at a lower temp?
Yes
There are two (2) Thermal Fuses included in the kit;
1 for Gas Dryers rated at 240F Yellow dot
1 for Electric Dryers rated at 300F Red/Pink dot
The hi-limit thermostat used on both gas & electric models rated at 248*F.
ok so i ran with the lid open, the high limit tstat is open or infinate(with ohm meter) and when it kicks the coil off i get very high readings on ohm meter is this supposed to be, for some reason after about 8 minutes the dryer shuts down and the high limit is stuck to closed(until it cools down) it is not blowing the thermal fuse,when it shuts down i check the thermal fuse and it is open?the hi limit and thermal fuses are new could i have got a bad one? or do you think the thermostat is bad and sending bad signals to the high limit tstat after it cools off it will start again
Sorry but I do not understand the last post.
Normally the hi-limit thermostat should be closed (0 ohms).
If there is an overheat condition it should open removing power from the heating coil.
Once the unit has cooled down it should close again.
When you run the dryer with the door open there is no air flow over the heating coils so you would expect the heating coils to overheat and the hi-limit to open to stop the over heating.
sorry im calling open closed and closed open i guess,so when it is closed or (power flowing thru it) i should be reading o.o ohms when i touch each contact and when it opens (when hi temp is reached) power should not be flowing thru it and i will get a high reading on my meter? what i meant by door open is i had the top open just so i could watch the coils cycle on and off. It would be working fine then all the sudden the high limit stat would kick open and dryer would shut down until it cooled off usually about 6 minutes, then I could start it again. I appreciate your help and for being so patient with my questions i will order a new thermo stat tonight and another thermo safety kit as well do you think the timer could be bad or wait to see if the thermostat fixes the problem thanks again take care ps. its been running for a hour again so far with no shut off does it matter witch way you put the wires on the thermal fuse because there is no marks on it and two wires dont know if i have them crisss crossed 
sorry im calling open closed and closed open i guess,so when it is closed or (power flowing thru it) i should be reading o.o ohms when i touch each contact and when it opens (when hi temp is reached) power should not be flowing thru it and i will get a high reading on my meter?
Yes.
I appreciate your help and for being so patient with my questions
Not a problem it is better to ask, rather than guess.
Also I still remember when I was learning this stuff and asking lots of questions.
Just keep asking till you understand it.
i will order a new thermo stat tonight and another thermo safety kit as well do you think the timer could be bad or wait to see if the thermostat fixes the problem thanks again take care
The timer should not be able to cause over temperature problems.
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ps. its been running for a hour again so far with no shut off does it matter witch way you put the wires on the thermal fuse because there is no marks on it and two wires dont know if i have them crisss crossed[/COLOR]
No it makes no difference as it is AC.
Note: That your cycling thermostat has 2 sets of connectors.
One set is the contacts. The other set is an internal heater. So the wires do make a difference here.
ok dryer is working good but for some reason after 10 minutes it shuts down then i waite for five minutes and start it up again and then it will run its entire cycle 40 -50 minutes thats wierd it does this every time any ideas
Sorry but nothing comes to mind that would cause this.
I would suggest you start a new thread giving the model number, symptoms etc.
Also reference this thread in your post.
The reason I suggest this is that when the forum is busy other regulars just do not have the time to look at all the posts and when they see another regular is helping the person they go to unanswered posts.
This should get you some new ideas.