I have a 10 year old Frigidaire electric dryer. Last week it would run but stopped heating. I tested the thermal fuse first since that seemed to be the 1st thing to check. That came back ok. So I disassembled the dryer and found that the coil in the heating element was broken. I ordered a new heating element (and bearing kit since ours was pretty gross). Replaced both parts last night and reassembled the dryer. Now it doesn’t run, no sound at all from anywhere when I turn the start knob. I’ve checked of the major fuses/switches but they look fine according to the multimeter. I didn’t touch anything on the control panel or the motor during this process. The light comes on when the door opens so I know it’s getting power. I can’t think of anything else to double check. Any suggestions?
Not starting (when power is known to be good) is a symptom of 1st a blown thermal fuse also called a thermal limiter or 2nd bad door switch or 3rd bad start switch (built into timer).
First of all check to see if the door switch has continuity when closed.
Second check to see if all the wires were place back on the elements and thermostats and thermal cut in the right order and are seated properly. Especially check the thermal fuse (thermal limiter) on the back wall of the dryer near the terminal block to see if the wires are seated and if it has continuity.
Thanks for the reply! Both of the fuses on the heating element have continuity as does the fuse on the blower. However I can’t get a reading on the Start switch. I double checked the switch associated with the temperature knob just to make sure I wasn’t missing something and can’t get a reading on that one either. Will these use a different setting on the multimeter than the X1k ohm setting? (And the setting knob switch is really complicated so I have no idea how to test anything on that one.)
The door switch is also okay. Light goes on when the door opens.
Checking the start button.
You should see continuity when the button is turned. If you get no reading when it is turned this is the part you need.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/frigidaire-start-switch-134398300-ap3838344.html
That makes sense. The start button has continuity when turned so that’s not it either. Any other suggestions on what else I can double check?
Ok I noticed you have not addressed the thermal fuse on the back case of the dryer. Or you have not mentioned checking it yet. You spoke of the two on the heating element as well as the thermostat on the blower.
I suspect the thermal fuse will be your issue. Please check it for continuity.
Look at schematic 3 (cabnet and drum parts)
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-frigidaire-ferb6600es0.html
This is part 36
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/frigidaire-thermal-limiter-134120900-ap2108182.html
which has a video to to help you locate it
Please test this part.
I wasn’t sure if I had looked at that one so went ahead and tested it. That one has continuity as well. Based on the diagrams, I’ve looked at fuse/switch numbers: 10, 15, 26, 33, & 36 if I’m reading them correctly.
I would check the door switch…
it has two contacts and the closed position may be bad
check it with the door closed
you should have continuity between the common and NC prongs
I think that’s it. I have continuity between the Com & NO prongs but not the Com & NC prongs. That was one that I wasn’t sure how to test and just guessed. I can order a new one and see if that fixes the problem. I really appreciate the help that you’ve given.
in the mean time try running a bypass or jumper wire across comm and NC and try to start it. Thus verifying your finding.
Thanks for all of your help! The door switch ended up being fine. I was able to figure out which wire connected to it’s proper spot. Once I tightened the ball bearing screws to stop a knock it works just fine now. Your information was helpful in my repair process.