Whirpool dryer won’t stay on unless I hold in the start pushbutton. replaced pushbutton…still won’t work. Ohms-checked the Thermal cutoff (checked out good), and cleaned the thermistor and rest of the inside. Any ideas? Thanks!
-JIM-
check the little board in the cosole for a failed/burnt resisitor… if none the motor relay in the console is bad…
The hot wire goes to one side of the switch.If I connect my voltage tester to the hot wire and the other wire on the switch, should my tester light. I know the one wire is hot because I checked it to ground.
No, it won’t light. The tester needs a hot and nuetral/ground connection for it to light.
Here is your parts breakdown
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=KUDI01ILWH1
Here is your tech sheet
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208537797.pdf
If by microtemp switch you are referring to the thermal fuse.
Place one lead on White (Neutral) then check to each side of the fuse.
If it lights on one side and not the other the fuse is blown.
Do not use earth ground, it will just confuse things.
While cleaning the lint trap, a pencil fell into it. (I didn’t know that at the time.) When I started the dryer, it the tub immediately came to a stop. I opened the door to turn it off.
I took the top and rear covers off. Found the pencil and replaced the covers. When I tried to start the dryer, it was dead. There seems to be no power coming to the machine. I check my circuit breakers.
Is there some sort of reset on this unit? What should I look for? Thank you.
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LET7646AQ2 | AppliancePartsPros.com
Did you just look at the breakers if yes: flip the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Better yet measure it with a meter. Should be 240 volts L1 to L2.
And 120 volts L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral.
You may have blown the thermal fuse, Item 23 in "Section 3".
Unplug the unit, remove one wire from it and check it with a meter. Should be 0 ohms.
If you do not have a meter you can;
Unplug the unit, remove both wires from the fuse, short them together, tape them up so they cannot short to the frame, plug it in and give it a try.
If it runs replace this fuse ASAP as it is a critical safely device.
I am assuming that when you retrieved♦ the pencil you checked that the blower wheel was not damaged and was still attached properly to the motor.
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I found that the black wire on the electrical cord was broken at the terminal. The terminal block was also corroded. I installed a terminal repair kit and a new electrical cord. Only took three trips to three stores to do it! Thank you!