The dryer on my Kenmore Laundry Center won’t heat. Everything else works fine, and I have full 240V to unit. Model is 110.88752796. The heat just suddenly stopped working - drum still turns fine. Dryer vent is clear. I have no manual, and while the heat element would be easy to find and test for continuity, I suspect there may be an internal fuse or thermal cut-out somewhere. I have no service manual - only the simple owner’s manual. Any help anyone can provide would really be appreciated - I am many miles from a service tech, but very handy and skilled with a multi-meter to troubleshoot.
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=110.88752796
If you go to the Sears parts site they have actual parts breakdown diagrams.
Unfortunately they like to keep these in house.
The unit is actually a Whirlpool.
See the attachment for the wiring diagram.
The main thermostat AP2975271 is on the heater. It has an internal heater so has 4 leads.
The thermal cut-off AP3919267 is on the back plate.
The hi-limit AP3020170 is also on the back plate.
If the cut-off is blown, see the following.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 13 to 20 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.
The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow.
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.
Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.
If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it’s contacts may not be opening (welded shut)
Thank you, thank you. Great, succinct but thorough reply. I will get into it this AM and let you know what I find.
What an outstanding web site this is!
Jim
Denman,
I checked the Tstat, t-cutoff, and hi-limit for cont. I checked everything the way you suggested, including for a short to frame. I could only find the t-cutoff open. The element ran 17.7 Ohms.
So, I know the t-cutoff will need to be replaced. What could have caused this besides what you mention? Maybe it just failed prematurely? And, would you also replace the hi-limit at the same time, just to be on the safe side?
Thanks, Jim
Before you replace it, try putting a temporary jumper across the 2 terminals. If the htr element comes on then you know for sure.
Yes I would also replace the hi-limit.
Would also be a good idea to replace the main (cycling) thermostat.