Dryer will not heat, checked all thermostats and heating element. The timer advances and shut off at the end of cycle. The drum turns and blow out cold air on all settings. I checked with meter The black lead(hot wire) to the timer this is what I got, red wire 10-12 ohms, little black wire on timer 0 ohms, black wire 0 ohms, brown wire on timer 0 ohms, dark blue wire to start switch 1-2 ohms , light blue 1-2 ohms, purple 9-10 ohms, orange wire 10-12 ohms, white wire 10-12 ohms, brown on timer 12 ohms. Now from the black lead (hot) wire to the start button, black doesn’t move infinity?, dark blue, light blue and white all are 1-2 ohms From the black lead (hot) wire to the thermal cutoff both are 10-12 ohms, to the heating element 10-12 ohms. to the cut off fuse 1-2 ohms. to the thermostat on the blower the 2 big are 10-12 ohms, 1 of the little ones is 10-12 ohms the other little one is 1-2 ohms. Sorry this is so long but thought it might save some time to tell you what I already know. Is this a timer or wiring problem since all the thermostats and heating elements are showing good? If not what else could it be? Thanks in advance.
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-estate-teds740pq0.html
See the attachment for your wiring diagram.
The timer advances and shut off at the end of cycle.
Does it do this in both timed dry and auto cycles re: the circuit path is different for these modes.
[COLOR="Blue"]I checked with meter
The black lead(hot wire) to the timer this is what I got,[/COLOR]
Are you saying that the black wire (L1) was the reference side of the meter re: one meter lead was always here.
Also knowing where the times was set would be useful.
Sorry but your meter readings do not make sense to me.
As an example "red wire 10-12 ohms"
If you are measuring black to red on the timer it should be 0 ohms if the timer is set mid scale on a heating cycle instead it looks like your are reading the heater resistance.
brown wire on timer 0 ohms,
I do not see a brown wire at the timer
Sorry but I am confused.
Looks like your power is OK as the timer advances and it and the heater use 240 volts.
Set the timer to mid scale high heat.
Use your most sensitive meter scale. It is a good idea to short the meter leads together before starting just to see if there is a zero offset in the meter.
Clip or tape one meter lead to the L1 prong on the line cord and leave it there.
Now measure to the L1 (black) on the terminal strip should be 0 ohms.
Now work your way back through the heater circuit.
All the following should be 0 ohms.
red wire on timer
both sides of the thermal cut-off
both sides of the operating thermostat contacts (outer two connectors) (inner two are it’s internal heater)
both sides of the hi-limit thermostat
one side of the heating coil
The other side of the heating coil should be 0 to 12 ohms
Also 1M at the motor’s centrifugal switch.
denman said:
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-estate-teds740pq0.htmlSee the attachment for your wiring diagram.
The timer advances and shut off at the end of cycle.
Does it do this in both timed dry and auto cycles re: the circuit path is different for these modes.yes all cycles[COLOR="Blue"]I checked with meter
The black lead(hot wire) to the timer this is what I got,[/COLOR]
Are you saying that the black wire (L1) was the reference side of the meter re: one meter lead was always here. yes
Also knowing where the times was set would be useful. It is set on 30 min. high heat timed drySorry but your meter readings do not make sense to me.
As an example "red wire 10-12 ohms"
If you are measuring black to red on the timer it should be 0 ohms if the timer is set mid scale on a heating cycle instead it looks like your are reading the heater resistance. I went from L1 black wire to red wire on timerbrown wire on timer 0 ohms,
I do not see a brown wire at the timer
Sorry but I am confused. It’s a little brown wire going from one side of the timer to the otherLooks like your power is OK as the timer advances and it and the heater use 240 volts.
Set the timer to mid scale high heat.
Use your most sensitive meter scale. It is a good idea to short the meter leads together before starting just to see if there is a zero offset in the meter.
Clip or tape one meter lead to the L1 prong on the line cord and leave it there. made sure of zero offsetNow measure to the L1 (black) on the terminal strip should be 0 ohms. 0 ohms
Now work your way back through the heater circuit.
All the following should be 0 ohms.
red wire on timer 10-12 ohms
both sides of the thermal cut-off 10-12 ohms
both sides of the operating thermostat contacts (outer two connectors) cycling thermostat (big red wires) 10-12 ohms(inner two are it’s internal heater) purple wires( little) 1 of them 6-8 ohms the other is 0 ohms
both sides of the hi-limit thermostat 10-12 ohms
one side of the heating coil both sides are 10-12 ohmsThe other side of the heating coil should be 0 to 12 ohms both sides are 10-12 ohms
Also 1M at the motor’s centrifugal switch. 10-12 ohms
Sorry but I do not understand what "10-12 ohms" means.
denman said:
Sorry but I do not understand what "10-12 ohms" means.
The meter is showing somewhere between 10 and 12 ohms.
Yes but where.
I need to know where the meter leads are.
Did you measure the heater circuit as I outlined in my earlier post and if yes what were the results?
denman said:
Yes but where.I need to know where the meter leads are.
Did you measure the heater circuit as I outlined in my earlier post and if yes what were the results?
denman, in your earlier post I quoted you and posted the results. I tried to put the results in a different color to make it easier for you to read. It wouldn’t let me so I put a space in between. I put one lead from the meter on L1 and the other where you told me to. I know its kind of hard to see,but if you’ll look at the post I quoted you in, I posted the results. Sorry for the confusion, and thank you very much for trying to help me.
I am going to have to sit down and go through this.
It looks like you are reading the heater resistance but I cannot for the life of me see where there is an alternate circuit path.
Just to check - did this dryer did used to work for you, correct?
Or is it new to you as it could be someone has messed with the wiring.
You could try disconnecting the red wire from the timer and then measuring just across the timer contacts.
OK I’m back
The other side of the heating coil should be 0 to 12
I screwed up when I said the above. It should be 8 to 12 ohms.
both sides of the operating thermostat contacts (outer two connectors) cycling thermostat (big red wires) 10-12 ohms
OK the 10 to 12 ohms is bad.
So measure black to red at the timer but with the red wire disconnected. This should be 0 ohms as you as measuring across a set of closed contacts in the timer and have isolated it from the rest of the circuitry.
If you still get 10 to 12 ohms then the contacts are bad and the timer needs replacing.
(inner two are it’s internal heater) purple wires( little) 1 of them 6-8 ohms the other is 0 ohms.
These also seems weird.
Contacts BK to V should be open (infinite ohms) when in high heat.
I hope I do a decent job explaining this.
So using the wiring diagram.
When your reference meter lead is on L1 then the current/meter circuit path is BK at the timer to BU since BK to V is open but BK to BU is closed in high heat.
Then through the thermal fuse, through the motor windings to the right hand side of the thermostat heater (on the wiring diagram).
This should measure about 1.5 ohms. This is the motor windings.
On the left hand side of the thermostat heater you should see about 5,600 to 8,400 ohms.
[COLOR="Green"]both sides of the hi-limit thermostat 10-12 ohms
one side of the heating coil both sides are 10-12 ohms[/COLOR]
These two is what I would expect as you also saw this at the BK to red measurement.
The other side of the heating coil should be 0 to 12 ohms both sides are
As I said earlier this is my error as it should be 8 to 12 ohms.
both sides are 10-12 ohms
Here we get weird again.
Using the wiring diagram.
You would expect to see 10-12 ohms on the left hand side of the element since even if it indicates a problem it is what you have seen in the circuit so far.
But the right hand side should be the 10 to 12 ohms plus 7.8 to 11.8 ohms (the heater resistance) because that is now added to the circuit.
Note the 7.8 to 11.8 is the 8 to 12 ohms that I mentioned earlier I just round it off to 8 to 12.
I hope that I have not confused the livin out of you.
After a lot of years this stuff is second nature to me but I am not very good at explaining it.
So in conclusion I would say that the timer needs replacing.
The heater not adding in when you checked it bothers me but I am at a loss as to why this is.
Before ordering a timer I would check the heating coil.
Undo both wires at the heater.
Then measure the heater it should be between 8 and 12 ohms.
Then measure from each heater connector to the frame/case, both should measure infinite ohms.
You are checking to see if the heater is OK and that it has not sagged and is touching the case which is a bad thing.
denman said:
I am going to have to sit down and go through this.It looks like you are reading the heater resistance but I cannot for the life of me see where there is an alternate circuit path.
Just to check - did this dryer did used to work for you, correct?
Or is it new to you as it could be someone has messed with the wiring.
denman this is a friends dryer, as far as i know it was working fine then just stopped heating. he said he thought it was the timer because he checked all the thermostats and heating elements so he might have messed with the wiring I don’t know. He asked me if I would look at it (I’m not a repair man as you can tell) because I had done a couple simple repairs before.
You could try disconnecting the red wire from the timer and then measuring just across the timer contacts.
After I remove the red wire then I take the meter and measure where the red wire was to the black wire? Is this correct? What should the reading be?
And how do I change my reply to a different color? Thanks again.
denman said:
OK I’m backThe other side of the heating coil should be 0 to 12
I screwed up when I said the above. It should be 8 to 12 ohms.both sides of the operating thermostat contacts (outer two connectors) cycling thermostat (big red wires) 10-12 ohms
OK the 10 to 12 ohms is bad.
So measure black to red at the timer but with the red wire disconnected. This should be 0 ohms as you as measuring across a set of closed contacts in the timer and have isolated it from the rest of the circuitry.
If you still get 10 to 12 ohms then the contacts are bad and the timer needs replacing.(inner two are it’s internal heater) purple wires( little) 1 of them 6-8 ohms the other is 0 ohms.
These also seems weird.
Contacts BK to V should be open (infinite ohms) when in high heat.
I hope I do a decent job explaining this.
So using the wiring diagram.
When your reference meter lead is on L1 then the current/meter circuit path is BK at the timer to BU since BK to V is open but BK to BU is closed in high heat.
Then through the thermal fuse, through the motor windings to the right hand side of the thermostat heater (on the wiring diagram).
This should measure about 1.5 ohms. This is the motor windings.
On the left hand side of the thermostat heater you should see about 5,600 to 8,400 ohms.[COLOR="Green"]both sides of the hi-limit thermostat 10-12 ohms
one side of the heating coil both sides are 10-12 ohms[/COLOR]
These two is what I would expect as you also saw this at the BK to red measurement.The other side of the heating coil should be 0 to 12 ohms both sides are
As I said earlier this is my error as it should be 8 to 12 ohms.both sides are 10-12 ohms
Here we get weird again.
Using the wiring diagram.
You would expect to see 10-12 ohms on the left hand side of the element since even if it indicates a problem it is what you have seen in the circuit so far.
But the right hand side should be the 10 to 12 ohms plus 7.8 to 11.8 ohms (the heater resistance) because that is now added to the circuit.
Note the 7.8 to 11.8 is the 8 to 12 ohms that I mentioned earlier I just round it off to 8 to 12.I hope that I have not confused the livin out of you.
After a lot of years this stuff is second nature to me but I am not very good at explaining it.So in conclusion I would say that the timer needs replacing.
The heater not adding in when you checked it bothers me but I am at a loss as to why this is.Before ordering a timer I would check the heating coil.
Undo both wires at the heater.
Then measure the heater it should be between 8 and 12 ohms.
Then measure from each heater connector to the frame/case, both should measure infinite ohms.
You are checking to see if the heater is OK and that it has not sagged and is touching the case which is a bad thing.
I have to admit I am a little, actually a lot confused lol. But I will take my time and try to sort all of this out. If nothing else I will just order the timer and if that fixes it great, if not I can return it correct? And by the way I already took the heating element out and checked it. It was not sagging or touching the case, but when I tested it from lead to lead it was 0 ohms I thought that meant the continuity was good therefore the element was good is that not correct? I will let you know what I find after I check all of this out once again. Thanks very much.
I have to admit I am a little, actually a lot confused lol.
Sorry about that
If nothing else I will just order the timer and if that fixes it great, if not I can return it correct?
Yes if it is ordered from AppliancePartsPros. They let you return electrical parts most other places do not.
I tested it from lead to lead it was 0 ohms I thought that meant the continuity was good therefore the element was good is that not correct?
No.
The element must have a resistance of 8 to 12 ohms.
One thing you have to watch out for when using a meter is the resistance scale. The lowest scale on my meter is 200 ohms so if you used this scale and got 0 ohms on the heater then it is bad.
But lets say you used the 20K ohm scale then it might show it as 0 ohms.
Depends on the number of digits on the meter’s display re: it is rounding off the reading to get it to fit on the display.
denman I didn’t get a chance to look at anything on the dryer today. But I have a question, is there anyway to bypass the timer (just for testing) to see if everything else is ok ? Does the heating element run on 120? Could I fix a test wire and hook it straight to a 120 outlet to see if it works. Thanks.
But I have a question, is there anyway to bypass the timer (just for testing) to see if everything else is ok ?
There is a way to by-pass/jump the BK to R contacts on the timer.
You would need stiff copper wire that is at least 12 gauge.
And then short those two connections together.
I do not recommend this because of the high current in the heater circuit.
If the bypass does not make excellent contact it will overheat and then could mess up you connectors on the wires etc.
Does the heating element run on 120? Could I fix a test wire and hook it straight to a 120 outlet to see if it works.
No
The heating element runs off of 240 volts.
denman said:
But I have a question, is there anyway to bypass the timer (just for testing) to see if everything else is ok ?
There is a way to by-pass/jump the BK to R contacts on the timer.
You would need stiff copper wire that is at least 12 gauge.
And then short those two connections together.
I do not recommend this because of the high current in the heater circuit.
If the bypass does not make excellent contact it will overheat and then could mess up you connectors on the wires etc. [COLOR="Red"]OK I will try this. If this works does that mean the timer is bad ?
[/COLOR]
Does the heating element run on 120? Could I fix a test wire and hook it straight to a 120 outlet to see if it works.
No
The heating element runs off of 240 volts.
Ok good to know that
denman, I took the timer apart and the contacts were burnt. Took some sandpaper and cleaned it up. It’s working good now. Do you think this is a permanent fix or will it go out again shortly? One other question, before I took the timer apart I thought the problem might be that switch on the motor, so as I was checking it the little copper wire that comes out of the motor and connects to the switch broke off. Is there any way to repair this or is the motor trash? Thank you for all your time and help.
Do you think this is a permanent fix or will it go out again shortly?
Could last a week or years. I cannot say.
A lot depends on how aggressive you had to be when cleaning them.
If you can see arcing when they open then tey will n ot last long.
[COLOR="Blue"]
Is there any way to repair this or is the motor trash?[/COLOR]
Sorry I cannot very helpful here either.
Depends on where the wire broke.
If it is lonk enough you could solder a wire extension to it.
You just have to be sure that it cannot short to anything else so it has to be taped or heat shrinked.