[SIZE=3]My Whirlpool icemaker quit working recently. The water valves works fine. Resistance checks on the motor, mold heater and thermostat appeared to give good readings. The LED is ON SOLID when the emitter flapper door is pressed to unblock the beam. Installing a jumper between the “T” and “H” test points failed to initiate a harvest with I/M installed in the freezer but works when powered directly from a 110-volt house outlet. Voltage test of the BLACK & WHITE and BLACK & TAN wires in the freezer wall receptacle only gave 60-volts NOT 110-volts. Does this mean that the RECEIVER and/or EMITTER BOARDS are faulty and need replacing??? Are they replaced as a pair??? Any tests or checks I can do to be sure???[/SIZE]
Check for 120VAC between the "L" & "N" test points while the ice maker is plugged in. Make sure test probes are going 1/2" in.
If there is no 120VAC then check for 120VAC between the "L" test point and ground.
If there is 120VAC then the problem is a neutral wiring.
If there is no 120VAC then, according to the [AP3137510](https://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%202255380.pdf"]wiring diagram [/URL]check for continuity between the B/W wire at the ice maker receptacle and the B/W4 wire at the receiver board.
If there is nothing wrong then both optic boards have to be replaced (unless there is a broken hot wire somewhere). They come as a kit.
- The part number for the optic boards kit is [URL="http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/ctrfs.aspx?part_id=3137510&&model_id=503261&diagram_id=124832)
Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool refrigerator http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=124832&&model_id=503261
Gene.
Is this difficult to replace the optic board? Where is it located? We have just replaced the entire ice maker, but it still does not work. The light blinks twice, pause, blinks twice.
What is the complete model number of the refrigerator?
Gene.