My dryer wasn’t heating so I had the fuses and thermostats checked. I ended up having to replace the thermal fuse and high limit thermostat set that comes as a kit. My dryer started working perfectly with lots of heat, but then when I turned it off and tried to restart it minutes later, it wouldn’t start. It looks like my other thermal fuse is bad now. Am I blowing fuses or is something else wrong? I checked the vent and it was relatively clean but I removed all small pieces of lint.
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My dryer wasn’t heating so I had the fuses and thermostats checked. I ended up having to replace the thermal fuse and high limit thermostat set that comes as a kit. My dryer started working perfectly with lots of heat, but then when I turned it off and tried to restart it minutes later, it wouldn’t start. It looks like my other thermal fuse is bad now. Am I blowing fuses or is something else wrong? I checked the vent and it was relatively clean but I removed all small pieces of lint.
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A model number would be helpful.
If you are talking about the white thermal fuse located on the back of the blower housing, that fuse blows if the dryer’s internal temp gets too high or if you have a vent problem. It can also blow if the thermostat right next to it is sticking. When I replace that white thermal fuse, I always replace the thermostat next to it and make sure all the vent is clean and unrestricted.
That is what I’m talking about. I temporarily connected the two wires that normally go to the thermal fuse on the blowing housing with tin foil and it started working again yesterday, however I noticed the dryer is getting extremley hot. I checked all of the fuses and thermostats again for continuity and found that the terminal on the heating unit was giving a bad reading even though it is still heating. Could it be a grounding issue? I cleaned the blowing housing and vent even though it was already clean. Oh, the dryer is a Whirlpool Supreme. Model LE5800XMW1. Thanks
Yes it could be a grounded element
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=252381
If the heating coil checks out OK I would replace the cycling thermostat (Item 2 in Section 3).
Note: That something is screwed up in the parts listing as it also show 7 and 8 as cycling thermostats.
Went to the whirlpool site and cross referenced their numbers (each part also had 2 alternates) everything came up as the one part (AP3115922)
But they did give what they should be set at
Item 2 - 155 degrees F
Item 6 - 150 degrees F
Item 7 - 140 degrees F
once you remove element put your hand up heater housing to see nothing is up there to cause shorting, like a piece of broken heater element .i have seen that twice,