My refrigerator/freezer just stopped working. The light inside the fridge still works but the compressor does not. How to I determine if it is the relay, overload or compressor that is the problem?
— Begin quote from Tmadz;361447
My refrigerator/freezer just stopped working. The light inside the fridge still works but the compressor does not. How to I determine if it is the relay, overload or compressor that is the problem?
— End quote
T,
The fan in the freezer, is it running ?
If not, you more than likely have a defrost timer or cold control problem,(most likely a defrost timer)
If it is running, then check for 120 VAC on the red wire at the start device, to chassis ground, to confirm we have power to the compressor assembly.
unplug the power cord, dismount the start device,and check the resistance on the 3 pins of the compressor, to the case of the compressor(bare metal), there should be no(infinite resistance) on a rx1 scale on the meter,
If you have the voltage on the red wire, if you have open circuits on the pins to casing, then you’ll need the start device
[part]AP2114990[/part]
Good Luck,
Thanks for the info. Nothing is working except for the light in the fridge. So am not sure your if your directions for the start device are relevant?
If so, then you believe it is the defrost timer or cold controller?
Thx
— Begin quote from Tmadz;361644
Thanks for the info. Nothing is working except for the light in the fridge. So am not sure your if your directions for the start device are relevant?
If so, then you believe it is the defrost timer or cold controller?
Thx
— End quote
T,
Thanks for that update,
You’re most likely going to need the defrost timer, that’s more common, than a bad cold control.
[part]AP2111929[/part]
Do you have a multi meter ?
If so, you can check for a closed circuit, or voltage at the defrost timer, to varify the problem.
With the cold control on, and the power cord plugged into the outlet,
You should have 120 VAC on the wire on the #3 terminal on the timer to chassis ground, if you have the voltage, the cold control is OK.
*** You can manually advance the timer into both modes, the short segment is the defrost segment, after the 2 clicks, you’ll be in the longest segment, the cooling mode ***
If the timer is in a cooling mode,
You should be able to read 120 VAC on the #4 terminal of the timer to chassis ground.
If the timer is in the defrost mode,
You should be able to read 120 VAC on the #2 terminal of the timer to chassis ground.
Good Luck,
Ordered the part and it now works a treat! Thanks for the help!