first tech said it was the defrost t-stat even though there was no build up. second tech said it needed recharge and that did not help… coils are clean fan turns on, seal is tight, still wont get down under 45 degrees. yet freezer acheives 7 degrees. please help. and yes the lights go off with door closed.
— Begin quote from dmiks;267505
first tech said it was the defrost t-stat even though there was no build up. second tech said it needed recharge and that did not help… coils are clean fan turns on, seal is tight, still wont get down under 45 degrees. yet freezer acheives 7 degrees. please help. and yes the lights go off with door closed.
— End quote
With all of that, there’s not much left,
Where they should have started, was the auto damper assembly:
[part]AP4069713[/part]
And, the air return cover
[part]AP4069841[/part]
The damper assembly is located in the top left corner of the refrigerator compartment. it has a temperature activated plunger that opens and closes a door in the assembly, and allows cold air from the freezer into the fresh food,
The door has a tendency to stick closed and or the plunger slips out and the door does not open completely, causing warm temps in the refrigerator compartment.
At the other end, lower left corner, behind the crisper drawers, is the air return cover, if the flapper in the air return cover sticks shut, the air won’t circulate, and again, you have warm temps.
Here’s the service manual for your unit.
You’ll have a better idea of what I’m describing, and a "how to " when you begin the repair process.
Good Luck,
i tried to tell these guys i did not believe there was enough freezer flow, yet they keep telling me that the flow is fine. does the t-stat in the fridge work the damper? and or is that single sent thru a board. so in other words should i also consider it electrical instead fo just mechanical replacement. which should i start with. also is there a chance it can be taken apart and rebushed or lubed. iam a machine repairman and can make just about anything. thanks
— Begin quote from dmiks;267531
i tried to tell these guys i did not believe there was enough freezer flow, yet they keep telling me that the flow is fine. does the t-stat in the fridge work the damper? and or is that single sent thru a board. so in other words should i also consider it electrical instead fo just mechanical replacement. which should i start with. also is there a chance it can be taken apart and rebushed or lubed. iam a machine repairman and can make just about anything. thanks
— End quote
Dmiks,
No, there are no electrical connections to the auto damper assembly.
The damper assembly is controlled by a temperature sensing bulb on the mechanism (you can see the coil on the side of the metal box).
Based on temperature in the refrigerator compartment, the mechanism moves the plunger in or out in turn opening / closing the flapper door.
Your temperature control, actually senses the freezer temperature, and cycles the compressor off/on as needed to keep the freezer temperature in range.
If you have access to the tools and equipment, Sure you could try to rebuild the assembly, just remember , the flapper door should never completely close, there should be at least a 1/4" opening when the door is fully shut, in the closed position.
As for the air return cover flapper, just push in on the plastic flapper(I used a pen / pencil) if it moves freely in and recoils back without sticking , you’re OK.
[part]AP4069713[/part]
— Begin quote from Joe / APP Team;267979
Dmiks,
No, there are no electrical connections to the auto damper assembly.
The damper assembly is controlled by a temperature sensing bulb on the mechanism (you can see the coil on the side of the metal box).
Based on temperature in the refrigerator compartment, the mechanism moves the plunger in or out in turn opening / closing the flapper door.
Your temperature control, actually senses the freezer temperature, and cycles the compressor off/on as needed to keep the freezer temperature in range.
If you have access to the tools and equipment, Sure you could try to rebuild the assembly, just remember , the flapper door should never completely close, there should be at least a 1/4" opening when the door is fully shut, in the closed position.
As for the air return cover flapper, just push in on the plastic flapper(I used a pen / pencil) if it moves freely in and recoils back without sticking , you’re OK.
[part]AP4069713[/part]
— End quote
DMIKS,
Was running through My Repair Forum files.
I realized I had not heard back from you.
Just wanderring if you were able to check and repair you auto damper, or did you need to replace it ?
Was the air return cover working properly ?
Just wanderring if you were up and running ?
Thanks,
