Just bought new dual surface switch. Old part no. was 318078200. New part no. is 903057-9010.
Wiring configuration is completely different between the old switch and new switch and diagram isn’t very helpful (doesn’t even mention wire colors).
Does anyone have more specific details on how to wire the new switch? Thanks.
Hi mrsdrjones
The installation instructions and diagrams supplied with the new part based on the terminal numbers not on wires color because it was designed for a few different models.
Locate the L1 terminal on the old switch and on the new one and move it one wire at a time.
Good luck.
Gene.
Is there a part I can buy so the frige door closes automatically like my freezer door? Not sure if it is supposed to just swing open and stay that way until its manually closed or if it should have auto close hinges? Thanks
I have a new house but it has been sitting for a year. I finally got a renter (selling was impossible) and the disposer leaks around the flange at the top. I pulled it out (relatively simple procedure) checked the seals, cleaned the seat and reinstalled. It worked for awhile bit is leaking again. Got any ideas?
Hello all. Great forum! I did some searching and couldn’t find an exact solution for what my dishwasher is doing. (or not doing!). About 2 weeks ago I noticed the dishwasher was making a weird noise and had a lot of water in the bottom and not getting the dishes clean. I checked out the waste hose at the garbage disposal and saw that it wasn’t shooting water out anymore at all. I pulled the dishwasher out and found that the waste hose at the bottom of the dishwasher had kinked and was probably only letting 10-20% of the water out. There was also a bunch of solid grease in the hose where the kink was. At that point I put a shorter hose in, cleaned out that grease and then I looked at the 5/8" hose going towards the disposal and it had a bunch of solid grease in it too. I took the 5/8" waste hose outside and ran hose water through it and I bet 2 feet of solid grease came out of the hose! At that point I put it all back together and the dishwasher worked great other than the glasses and dishes on the upper rack are getting food particles on the top and not getting as clean as they had done before. Then I checked and the upper spray arm never moved throughout the whole cycle. I see that there is a tube that goes from the bottom of the dishwasher to the top that makes the upper spray arm move but when I watched the dishwasher throughout the whole cycle, I would see water go up the tube on the side from time to time, but the water would just get to the top of the dishwasher, sit there, and then drain back down later. It never seemed to have enough force to make the upper arm move. I looked at the repair manual here and saw about how there is a check ball that controls where the water goes so I took the basket/pump assembly apart to look for more possible grease or food blocking something but it actually looked pretty good down there. Any ideas? Is the pump bad not putting enough pressure out? Any help would be appreciated.
DH
Here is a link that may help
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=MDB4040AWB
Would check to be sure the holes in the upper arm are clean.
Would also check the water level on fill. On most units it should be just under the heating element. I cannot say this for certain on your unit. If it seems low add a quart or two to it and see if it now works OK. If it does then it could be that the screen filter on the inlet side of the water valve need cleaning.
Yeah, I added a gallon of water already and the upper arm was still inop. I haven’t checked to see if the water under normal conditions was up to the heating tube yet. I also ran outside hose water through the upper arm and all holes looked to be open. I’ll check the water inlet valve like you say in a few mins. and see what happens.
DH
Gene, I am trying to replace old part # 318078200 with new part # 903057-9010. The wiring has us beat! I lost the old switch, so I can’t compare it to the old one. Do you have a pic or diagram to go by? Any help is greatly appreciated.
The new switch should come with the installation instructions. If it did not then call people who sold it to you and they must take care of it.
Gene.
I am having similar problem hope you can help. Here is a photo of old switch
The Replacement switch. (Includes a Y adapter)
Original wiring diagram. (Only 1 lamp.)
Replacement instructions.
Thank you for you help. I can email these to you if need be.
It is not visible on the old switch picture which wire where goes and which one is the jumper wire. Can you track down each wire connected to the switch and post it?
Gene.
The brown wire runs to all the controllers and to the light. The light I am referring to is the ‘controller on’ and ‘hot surface’ light. Is this the jumper wire you are referring to?
I would still like some help.
TMcTx,
Sorry for the delay. Based on the pictures and diagrams you posted the terminals on the new switch do not match the diagram on the installation instructions. I need you to post the complete model number of the range and the part number of the new switch you bought, so I could double check everything.
Gene.
The new switch package is switch kit is labeled 903097-9050. The switch is 318191003.
The cook top is a Frigidaire FEC30S6HSA.
Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Tim
Tim,
The model number you posted does not come up. The closest model number I found is FEC30S6HSB and by this model number the correct part number for the switch is [AP4319645](http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?image=2&part_id=2129274&pn_=318191000"]318191000[/URL] which is Appliance Parts Pros part number [URL="http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?image=2&part_id=2129274&pn_=318191000).
Gene.
Thank you. They sold me the wrong switch if I cannot get it exchanged I will be getting one from APP. Thank you for looking this up.
APP sent me the same switch and wiring diagram I had. Here are some more photos of the old switch from different angles to help with the diagnosis.
Thanks for your help.
Tim
Tim,
Are you sure there are no S1 and S2 terminals on the switch?
Gene.
There are only blank slits where the S1 and S2 tabs are marked.