We had a power surge that took out a few applicances. The unit is completely dead, no lights on the display.
I replaced the fuse, That didn’t fix it. The flame sensor is good (0 ohms across it), all of the door interlock switches are good. The only thing left I think is the smart board (main PCB), anything else I should check before I replace it?
Just in case if you are going to fix it - the part number for the main PCB is AP3205428
Gene.
I have the same microwave with a similar problem. We have replaced the fuse through a repairman ($100) and the unit died two days later. The repairman says it will probably keep happening and I should consider buying a new unit (built in cost’s $1100). we replaced the main mother board two years ago for $250. Should I bite the bullet and replace or or do you think I can do it myself for $100 and replace the mother board again?
If I do replace it, do you have any suggestions for a more dependable built in unit to replace this GE Profile JE2160sf001? Thanks!
Kevin
Kevin,
Did a repairman tell you why the fuse keeps blow?
Did you notice how the fuse died?
Did it happen while the microwave was cooking or you just pressed the Start button?
Gene.
Gene,
All he said was that he has seen others do the same thing and they just keep replacing fuses and mother boards. Thats when he recomended a new unit.
We have never seen the fuse blow and it doesn’t happen while cooking. The last two times there has been a error light flashing which clears when you hit clear. Within a day the unit is dead.
We had an electrical storm last night now my microwave doesnt turn on and the display is wavy and hard to see…the fan and lights work …ther is a faint buzzing noise coming from behind display…what could it be?
Its getting power because the display lites up but there are waves on the screen and thats where its buzzing from…is the control board hard to change?
I’m glad you were able to fix it.
The buzzer, I believe, is a part of the control panel assembly which cost close to $400. I do not think that "beep" is worth it.
Gene.
It’s probably so small I could not see it on the picture.
Gene.
Ref. bulb is off. The bulb tests Ok. What do I do next?
Take off the light bulb socket and clean the contacts inside where the bulb screws into, that bottom contact may be corroded. If that does not work, your light switch is most likely bad.
abadfish66 said:
Take off the light bulb socket and clean the contacts inside where the bulb screws into, that bottom contact may be corroded. If that does not work, your light switch is most likely bad.
I did lightly sand the contacts; that didn’t work. How do I replace the switch? Is that something I might do?
We are unable to remove knob from timer assembly. HELP
Pull the knob and try to unscrew it (CCW).
Gene.
Gene said:
Pull the knob and try to unscrew it (CCW).Gene.
Gene, We had tried everything, nothing worked. My wife popped a thin cover from the center of the knob with her thumb nail and we found our answer. There are two screws holding the knob assembly to the timer box. Once they are removed the spring and cup and both parts of the knob are easily removed. Be careful the spring caught us by surprise and we had to search the floor for two of the parts.
Your advice to pull the knob and unscrew it counter clock wise would have broken the knob assembly.
Sincerely,
Ron Eastwood
Ron,
The timer knob for the Kenmore washer with the model number 110.82883100 according to the picture
[CENTER]
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[LEFT]and the part description has metal threads in the center.
Gene.[/LEFT]