Thought I would try to help someone else out…
Part Number: AP2025155 (from another site, not sure if this is correct)
MFG Part Number: WB27K5172 (again, not 100% sure…)
Hi have a GE Profile oven, model JTP16xxxxx that shuts itself off less than a minute after it is turned on, in any heating mode. There are no ‘error codes’ displayed when this happens. My wife told me that if she continually ‘reset’ (hit the ‘bake’ button) immediately when this happened, it would start working ‘normally’ once the unit got up to temperature.
As someone experienced with electronics, this was a key point that gave me the encouragement to investigate ‘root cause’ of this issue. After doing some research, I found that it appears there are a couple of ‘common’ problems (symptoms) that happen with these units… This is one of them. The other common problems are when the unit displays an ‘error code’ of F1, F2, F3, F4, F5, F6 or F7… These seemed to be more common & probably simpler to ‘fix’ since many of them are caused by a ‘stuck’ relay… Unfortunately for me, this wasn’t my problem
During my research it seemed that the controller board for this oven is no longer available… AND that there is at least one or two outfits that do repairs to this assembly (to the ‘tune’ of somewhere between $100 and $400!
I took the unit apart and verified that the sensing element was OK (proper reading at room temperature ~1100 ohms, and that there were no obviously ‘burned’ components or broken/cracked solder joints… I did notice that one large electrolytic capacitor appeared to have leaked, value 2200uF, 35V.
This was replaced, but did not fix the problem 
This is going to require a more thorough investigation… Took the control panel out as well as the transformer that powers it. Set the panel up on the workbench (after carefully removing the printed circuit boards from the metal housing) and powered it up… Now, the relays wouldn’t even ‘click’ when ‘bake’ was selected… Turns out I needed to ‘jumper’ a couple of pins on the (no longer connected) door latch sensor switches… I also hooked up a variable resistor to the temperature sensor input so I could ‘simulate’ the oven temperature.
Now I could reproduce the symptoms!
Select ‘Bake’, set temperature, wait 10-40 seconds, bake indication ‘disappears’ and unit acts as if there was never a ‘bake’ mode set!!!
Next, out came my wife’s hair dryer… After heating the boards up to a ‘toasty warm’, I tried things again… Sure enough, it works fine (stays in ‘bake mode’ and attempts to regulate temperature according to the setpoint and the temp sensor input (variable resistor). Next, the problem (in my case) was isolated to the ‘middle’ PCB of the ‘stack’ using the hair dryer to only heat one board at a time… Next the ‘area’ of the PCB which needed to be heated was isolated…
To make this (already long) story shorter, I’ll just tell you (although I don’t have the reference designator handy at the moment) that the problem was a capacitor, aluminum electrolytic, 0.47uF and either 25V or 50V (can’t remember this detail either at the moment)… Close inspection of the capacitor with a lighted magnifying glass didn’t reveal any obvious problems (leakage, can ‘swelling’ etc), however at least one other (than the 2200uF, 35V capacitor) DID exhibit signs of leakage…
I decided to order replacement capacitors for ALL of the aluminum electrolytic capacitors… There were only SIX TOTAL… Total cost, including US postal service shipping for all six parts: LESS THAN TEN dollars!!! And that’s for parts that are as good or probably even significantly better than the originals in terms of their voltage, temperature and life ratings…
I will install the parts this weekend & I have little doubt the oven will be ‘good to go’ for another 15 years (I had an equivalent value capacitor already for the ‘bad’ one, but with a lower temperature rating, so I only used it to verify the ‘fix’ as a temporary test.\
If you know how to solder and have basic mechanical/electrical/electronics skills, you can probably do this repair yourself too (or find someone who is qualified to do it for you) - heck, even take the unit to a local TV repair shop with this description & they can probably do the work for you.
Here’s what I ordered from Digi-Key Electronics (www.digikey.com):
565-1589-ND CAP ALUM 2200UF 35V 20% RADIAL 1.49000 1.49
565-1581-ND CAP ALUM 1000UF 35V 20% RADIAL .87000 .87
493-1885-ND CAP ALUM 0.47UF 50V 20% RADIAL .23000 .23
4200PHCT-ND CAP ALUM 47UF 16V 20% AXIAL 2.52000 2.52
565-1544-ND CAP ALUM 47UF 25V 20% RADIAL .25000 .25
493-1847-ND CAP ALUM 4.7UF 35V 20% RADIAL .23000 .23
493-3276-ND CAP ALUM 100UF 25V 20% RADIAL .69000 .69
Note there are seven listed - I couldn’t read one of the capacitors well, so I ordered an ‘extra’, of a different (10X) value, just in case - I’ll measure the one I take out to determine which one to install in that particular case.
Hope this helps someone else out! 
If it does, and you’re really happy feel free to send me some ‘beer money’