[SIZE=3]Unplug the refrigerator before going further![/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Disassemble procedure:[/SIZE]
Remove the four ¼” ice maker bracket screws located at the four corners of the bracket.
Remove the two ¼” ice dispenser drive mounting bracket screws and remove the brackets.
Remove the two ¼” upper evaporator fan ductwork screws.
Unlock the tabs and remove the lower evaporator fan ductwork.
Remove the four ¼” evaporator cover screws and remove the cover.
Remove the two ¼” upper evaporator fan duct work screws located at the lower portion of the ductwork.
Using a small flat screwdriver, unlock the tabs for the ice maker and dispenser cables.
Slide the upper fan ductwork out.
Disconnect the evaporator fan wiring harness.
[SIZE=3]To test the evaporator fan motor skip to the test procedure, otherwise proceed further.[/SIZE]
Remove the ¼” screw for the evaporator fan ground wire.
Remove the two ¼” evaporator fan bracket mounting screws located at either side of the bracket.
Remove the evaporator fan assembly.
NOTE: The evaporator thermistor must be replaced when replacing the fan.
[SIZE=3]The evaporator fan motor test procedure:[/SIZE]
Unplug the refrigerator to reset the main control board.
Warm up the freezer thermistor to 70°F and set the temperature controls to middle settings.
Reconnect the power.
Check for 13 VDC from the red to the white wire and between 8 to 13 VDC from the white to the yellow wire at the evaporator fan connector.
If there is correct voltage for both, then the evaporator fan motor has to be replaced.
If the voltage is incorrect, then the main control board has to be replaced.
If the voltage is incorrect, check the resistance between the white to the red wire and the white to the yellow wire. If it’s less than 1K ohm, the evaporator fan motor is shorted and has to be replaced.
richappy said:
As an additional note, if the evaporator motor voltages are bad, it’s a good idea to replace both the mother board and the motor. If the evaporator motor bearings are bad, add a round slinger/umbrella to the new motor shaft to prevent moisture damage to the new motor bearings. You can make one out of semi-soft plastic that is round and symmetrical.
We purchased a GE side by side with water and ice in the door from a friend. It is less the 5 yrs old. We have water leaking from the bottom frezzer door and a 1/4 ice build up in bottom of frezzer. If we take some of the ice out daily we don’t see it leaking. The water and ice work fine and the frezzer is working great. Any ideas.
My GE refrig (GSH model) starting making a "whine" noise yesterday. It seems to be working fine. The noise actually seems to be coming from the freezer section behind the ice maker. We shut the ice maker off and the sound continued. We unplugged the fridge and plugged it back in and the noise was gone. But the noise is back today. We unplugged again, and the noise stopped again.
Any suggestions?
I have a TPS24BPDABS with a freezer that is cold at the bottom and not so cold at the top. Frig side also not cold enough. Also, ice maker stopped working and ice melted.
Upon removel of evaporator panel, frost was found at the top coils, but frost free at the bottom coils. Defroster element happened to come on and appeared to be working fine.
However, evaporator fan never appears to run. So, I suspect this is the problem. Does this sound right to you? And does this motor test procedure also apply to my model? Also, the test procedure in step shows diconnecting the motor before proceeding to the evap motor test procedures. Is that correct?
Thanks in advance for whatever help you might be able to provide.
hello~
I am trying to see if i can repair my refrig on my own. I had to replace the motor evap fan 2yrs ago…i’m thinking it might be the same thing thats causing it not to work now. Th e temp is not correct in the refrig…and the ice maker will not work?
agnazzo said:
hello~
I am trying to see if i can repair my refrig on my own. I had to replace the motor evap fan 2yrs ago…i’m thinking it might be the same thing thats causing it not to work now. Th e temp is not correct in the refrig…and the ice maker will not work?
Can you be more specific on the problem?
What is the complete model number of the refrigerator?
What exactly are temperatures in the freezer and in the refrigerator?
Do you see a frost on the rear panel in the freezer?
Remove the cover on the back of the fridge and make sure the fan motor next to the compressor is running. Clean the condenser coil from the back and from the front.
I have an Eterna model # ESS25XGMB CC, serial # HA 266281. The freezer is not cold enough (currently about 12 degrees F) and the vegetables in the bottom bin of the refrigerator compartment are frozen. The refrigerator (compressor?) is running constantly.
From other problem reports I’ve read, I suspect that the evaporator fan is not working. Is this likely? Can I use the procedure at the top of this thread on my model?
You might have a refrigerant leak or a bad condensing fan motor or evaporator motor.
Verify both motors are running, if so, remove the back panel in the freezer and check the frost pattern. If tottaly frosted, you have a defrost problem, if partially frosted, you either have a refrigerant leak or a bad compressor.
I have an Eterna model # ESS25XGMB CC, serial # HA 266281. The freezer is not cold enough (currently about 12 degrees F) and the vegetables in the bottom bin of the refrigerator compartment are frozen. The refrigerator (compressor?) is running constantly.
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Follow up: I took the evaporator coil cover off this morning. The fan was running, but the coil was frozen solid. After running my wife’s hair dryer for an hour and a half, the coil was clean and dry. Freezer temp’s down to 2 degrees and dropping. Problem solved (unless it freezes up again.)
I have an Eterna model # ESS25XGMB CC, serial # HA 266281. The freezer is not cold enough (currently about 12 degrees F) and the vegetables in the bottom bin of the refrigerator compartment are frozen. The refrigerator (compressor?) is running constantly.
Follow up: I took the evaporator coil cover off this morning. The fan was running, but the coil was frozen solid. After running my wife’s hair dryer for an hour and a half, the coil was clean and dry. Freezer temp’s down to 2 degrees and dropping. Problem solved (unless it freezes up again.)
— End quote
OK, I have a defrost problem. The evaporator coil freezes up every couple weeks and requires manual defrosting. I followed the troubleshooting guide at [SIZE=3]acmehowto.com - How To Fix a Refrigerator[/SIZE]. The defrost heater appears to be good (resistance = 22 ohms). I can’t measure the resistance of the defrost thermistor or defrost thermostat because they are hard wired into the wiring harnesses and I can’t trace the wires to the plug without major disassembly. By then the thermostat is warm and may be properly open. Is there any way to test resistance of these components at the motherboard? Is there a wiring diagram available anywhere? (Couldn’t find one behind the toe grill or anywhere else on the fridge.)
Remove the cover of the motherboard, unplug the 4 pin power connector, and stick a jumper between the line pin and def. pin as printed on the motherboard. If you now get defrost current as measured on the jumper, you have a bad motherboard AP4297272. If no current, probably a bad defrost thermostat.
There is a schematic in the "sticky" above with the South Jersey group I found that you can refer to.
This is the "manual defrost initiaton proceedure.
Remove the cover of the motherboard, unplug the 4 pin power connector, and stick a jumper between the line pin and def. pin as printed on the motherboard. If you now get defrost current as measured on the jumper, you have a bad motherboard AP4297272. If no current, probably a bad defrost thermostat.
There is a schematic in the "sticky" above with the South Jersey group I found that you can refer to.
— End quote
Rich, Excuse my caution, but I don’t want to make a dumb mistake and fry something. With the connector unplugged, do I jumper between the pins on the motherboard or between the corresponding contacts on the connector? (Without a wiring diagram, I’m flying blind.)
I found the "junk GE GSS20IEMbww new motherboard" thread, but the schematic seems to have been removed. There’s a red X in post #8 where it used to be. Is there another way to get this schematic?
You unplug the connector from the board and jumper the connector pins I mentioned.
I entered the Fixit now Samurai site and found the schematic no longer available, sorry. Good news is they have had good reliability with thermistors on these refrigerators, so you probably will have little trouble.Post back if you do