GE Washing machine leaks

Dishwasher Repair
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1

Hi guys,
My GE washing machine leaks as soon as it fills before any agitation begins. I’m assuming I will need to replace the tub seal and bearings (since it is a little loud when it spins). I will also need a spanner wrench to get the hub nut off. I have the part numbers for the bearings and seal but need a part number for the spanner wrench. Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated because the wife is getting a tad cranky. :slight_smile:

Thanks,
Wadester

3

Tub seals have not been a problem with these units, I would pull the front off the washer and see where the leak is coming from. If its the trans. lower bearing thats noisy, then you should replace the transmission. The transmission is supported at the top by a BUSHING in the tub, Bushings don’t get noisy!!! PS. find a tech in your area and borrow his spanner wrench. (Be really nice!!!) The wrench is PRICEY!!!:cool:

4

I just dissembled this GE top loading washer and replace everything (transmission bearing (plastic washer) outer tub bearing (brass sleeve, siliconed it in), main rubber tub seal, washer (with square hole), and both inner and outer bearing for the metal hub to ride in. This was to repair a leak that began ONLY once aggitation begins. Fortunatley I installed a leak pan as well and it still leaks from above transmission at outer tub bearing sleeve. Of course I am looking for inspiration here, but just a few things I thought about during the repair.

  • the hub in the outer tub does not appear to be sitting flush on the plastic transmission bearing. I did silicone-rtv the new hub in place in the outer tub.
  • There is a gap above the new outer tub rubber seal, I also siliconed the ouside of this to the outer tub and greased the inner lip to the tranny shaft. Nothing "sits on this gasket to keep it in place so to speak.
    *the tub only begins dripping once aggitation has begun.
    *Everything frictional got some synthetic grease and I did not cheap out on the hub nut wrench. I have the right one and it is very tight (hammered wrench a few times to lock it down, but I think the leak is lower. or right where that nut sits.
  • could it be leaking into the tranny shaft where the aggitation section seals to the solid shaft section? New tranny or more silicone where the shaft exits from the other shaft?

Thanks In advance.

Joe M.

5

You don’t need the spanner wrench, in my opinion. A lot of posts suggest using a hammer and screwdriver or chisel. I used a short pipe (monkey) wrench, gripped in one of the slots on the nut, and tapped the handle of the wrench with a rubber mallet. This worked great and I did not need to purchase a special tool.

6

Thought lid latch switch defective, replaced switch. Washer cycled correctly, then a few days later Fault code "L" shows up again. Need help troubleshooting problem.

7

Have not worked on this model, but since you have replaced the lid lock I would insect the wiring between the lid lock and the control board for a break or short.