I have a GE GSD 2030. My dishes in the upper rack were not getting properly cleaned (sandy residue). Ultimately, I thought I had the problem fixed after I:
manually spun the motor wheel,
cleaned out the drain (removed the grate and the second piece within), disassembled, reassembled and cleaned the float, and
manually manipulated the solanoid to make sure that it was working.
However, now the dishwasher will not drain, at all, which is a new symptom. The solanoid springs still seem to be undamaged and in place. HELP!!!
Note: Your model number is short, tthe above parts are for a GSD2030F02WW. Hopefully is will be close to yours. To ensure you get the correct parts you will need the last digits from your unit.
[COLOR=Blue]manually manipulated the solanoid to make sure that it was working.
The solenoid springs still seem to be undamaged and in place[/COLOR]
The solenoid springs will not give a no drain symptom. They are there to return the solenoid to the wash position.
Does the solenoid activate during a drain?
Is the motor running during drain?
The way it should work is that during drain the solenoid is activated for about 10 seconds, this pulls it’s plunger down and switches the flapper valve to the drain position. The water pressure then holds the flapper valve in the drain position until the unit is empty (no water pressure on it), the springs then pull the plunger up and the flapper is now at the wash position.
Note that if the solenoid gets power for too long (re: timer contacts sticking), it will overheat.
Check that the solenoid has continuity.
If yes
Check that it is getting power when it should.
I do not believe that the motor runs during a drain, but can not tell, as I do not know exactly when the drain occurs. My assumption is that the drain should occur right before the dry cycle.
Yes, it should. It should also drain between cycles re: before the second wash if using a 2 wash cycle (pots & pans) also before a rinse cycle and sometimes a couple times during a rinse.
On many units the motor runs continuously during wash and drain.
I also am not sure, but do not believe that the solanoid is activated. I sat with a flashlight watching the solanoid during the end of the rinse/beginning of the dry cycle and it did not move.
Best way to check is with a meter. Remove power from the unit, remove the wires from the solenoid and check it with a meter, should be around 50 ohms. If open (infinite ohms) replace the solenoid. If OK plug it back in and run a cycle while checking across the solenoid for power to see if it gets 120 volts AC when it should. If it does not you may have a broken wire between the timer and the solenoid or your timer is toast.
I think what may have occurred is that when I was initially attempting to get the water to drain, I pulled off the grate in the back and pulled out the plastic piece. I also pulled on the rubber piece and for a moment broke the seal. I assume that water entered the pump mechanism in that way.
If the solenoid does not pull down this will make no difference. The unit will not drain without the flapper valve in the drain position. The piston & nut usually lets it drain some but not fully so you end up with water in the tub but some does go down the drain.
The question now is whether I attempt to replace the pump, or simply buy a new dishwasher.
I doubt it is your pump unless it is not running at all.
So since the dishwasher runs, and washes dishes, but does not drain, you think that it may either be a broken wire or a bad solanoid?
Yes. Also could be the timer
Should I manually try to pull the solanoid down at some point while the machine is operating to see if I can get it to drain?
I would give it a try.
Tonight I tested the solenoid with a "bulb tester" not a multimeter. It appears that there was no continuity (the light did not come on).
I did manage to unplug the wires from the terminal and not note which was hooked onto which side of the terminal. Any advice for identifying which wire to which terminal if I purchase a new solenoid?
At this point would you recommend a new solenoid?
Yes if it is an open it needs replacing.
Never used a "bulb tester" so am not sure how it works.
You may want to get the solenoid checked with a meter just to be sure.
It does not matter which wire goes to which connector on the solenoid.
Pretty simple, two AA’s and a bulb, in between an alligator clip and a pin. Alligator clip goes to one pole, pin goes to the other, if the circuit is closed, a light goes on. (For instance if you touch the pin to the alligator clip, bulb goes on). With the solenoid, no light went on when attaching to each pole.
So I purchased the multimeter today. It appears that there is no resistance at 200 ohms. The next highest setting is 2k. Should I test there?
Yes, When looking for continuity of a part I always try a couple scales higher that where I expect the reading to fall, just to make sure it is a true open.
Also, in order to manually determine if the solenoid is the problem, will I need to hold the arm down for ten seconds? If so, can I do this when the dishwasher tub is full, but there is no power?
With water in the tub, door not latched, put the timer to somewhere in the cycle where the pump will run. Hold the solenoid down then close the door. The ten seconds really does not matter as once the water hits the flapper valve it should hold it in the drain position.
If holding the arm down does not cause a drain does that indicate that the solenoid is not the problem?
Yes or you may have 2 problems.
I am simply trying to hone in on the problem, so I don’t spend $40 on a solenoid and then have to buy a new dishwashwer after this does not solve the problem.
I completely understand. I do not replace parts unless I know they are blown or the odds are high that they are blown. If I want to throw money [COLOR=Blue]away there are better things than then appliance parts.
If you recall I indicated that I held the arm down during a cycle at one point, and water started to leak to the floor. When I was doing my initial, ignorant diagnosis, I pulled off the wash arm and prodded down that hold with a screw driver. Now it appears that the rubber piece at the bottom is off to the side, which I believe based on further review is where it belongs. But, is it possible I disturbed something which would cause the leak on the floor?[/COLOR]
Sorry do not understand the above. I would try to get it back to where it was. Also could be it will not make a difference
Last thing, if I choose to make the repair, will I be able to make the replacement just by accessing through the kickplate, without pulling the whole dishwasher?
Yes.
[COLOR=blue]With water in the tub, door not latched, put the timer to somewhere in the cycle where the pump will run. Hold the solenoid down then close the door. The ten seconds really does not matter as once the water hits the flapper valve it should hold it in the drain position.
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Would that timer position be just before the rinse and just before the dry, it’s not marked but that seems where it would be.
Also, when I close the door, do I latch it at that time?
And to be sure, activating the solenoid is pulling the arm down correct?
SO I manually engaged the Solenoid when the tub was full. The water did in fact drain, however, some water did leak. It looked like it came from the arm lever.
When this initially happended (the water in the tub) I took off the sump cover and the sump cap and pulled the sump inlet aside (pulled the plastic aside) which allowed water to escape, but not down the drain tube. Is it possible that water is what is now leaking? In other words, could it have gotten trapped somewhere?
It looked like it came from the arm lever.
If you mean the flapper arm lever seal then it is replaceable. Get both the seal and the push on nut (Items 415 and 417 in Section 3 of the parts)
When this initially happended (the water in the tub) I took off the sump cover and the sump cap and pulled the sump inlet aside (pulled the plastic aside) which allowed water to escape,
Sorry I do not understand the above.
Use a small mirror and a flashlight to find the leak, if you are unsure where it is coming from.
SO other than the two screws how do you remove the solenoid. The white piece that actually rotates and forces the arm up and down is attached to something and appears to need to be released, and I can’t seem to figure that out. Help?
You have to have the push nut on all the way. You may have to grab the flapper valve shaft with a pair of pliers as often they have front to back slop.
So pull it towards you then push the nut home.
If you do not get the nut on correctly you will not be able to put the levers C clip back into it’s groove.
In seating the push nut, I seem to have somewho compromised it, it’s now spinning freely and moving slightly forward and back. I guess I will have to replace the push nut if it leaks.
Place the C clip in the groove in the shaft.
Some units have a small post on the plastic lever assembly so the open part of the C clip must face this post.
Then with a small screw driver push the clip into the groove.
So, the clip is attached, and even though the push nut rotates freely, there are no leaks. The solenoid is a bit noisy, as the pin that pulls down the plunger is not tight in the lever that rotates the shaft. I imagine that will all "settle in".
Now the only problem is I have dishes that aren’t getting perfectly clean. The glasses end up with specks, I am thinking I may have to clean the screen from the water source, which I have been led to believe is at the end of the copper pipe as soon as I open up the kickplate.