My water supply to frig is on. Water flows from water valve (ice maker side) when I use direct 110V from a test cord. Supply line from valve to ice maker is not restricted. I manually filled ice tray yesterday and the ice formed but did not eject. I pulled the cover off the front and examined the geared wheel. I noticed one tab that holds the wheel on is missing, but the wheel seems to be secure. In the process of seeing if there was any play in the wheel the wire lever(activation arm?) began to rise, at which point the cubes began to eject from the tray. The cubes dispensed fine from the door dispenser.
What should I now check or replace?
Rick in Indiana
Did you maunally move the gear, or did it move on its own?
I only attempted to move it front to back and there was no noticeable play.
rick
Cut a small piece of electric wire (about 6" long; #14 or a little larger) and strip about 1/2" off each end. Place one end in the test terminal on your icemaker, marked, "T", and the other end in the one marked, "H". (you may need to depress the door switch). Does the gear on the front start to move? If it does, let it go about 1/2 way around and remove the jumper. Does it fill with water?
the wire jumper works great to see if the i/maker cycles,one other thing i have found over the years is problems with "piercing valves", they get clogged at the feed pipe and cause pressure issues with the water valves , they dont close the valve properly because of low water pressure and cause water to drip into fill tube and freeze causing the valve to burnt out . i always recomended replacing with a shut off valve. and usually never had call backs related to i/maker no fill situations.
if you jump the maker out and it works, check the line to see if its frozen, and change filter, does that mean the valve is bad. water not leaving the valve on the maker side, but it is getting to the door dispenser
OK
I put the jumper wire in the "H" and "T" holes and the geared wheel did not move ( with door switch on or off, with wire lever up or down) and no water coming in.
What next?
Rick in Indiana
Check for voltage. You should have 120VAC between the test ports "L" and "V". If there is, replace the icemaker.
I checked for voltage, and I have 120VAC at the test ports "L" and "V". According to your email I should replace the icemaker?
The website lists part #35 Motor-module #AP3177342 and part #37 Motor-modl #AP435-9694. Which should I order, or is there another part I should request?
Rick in Indiana
Replace the Ice Maker. I’m from Indiana. Grew up in Richmond. Where are you?
sounds like you may have blown the valve. one side is for the dispenser the other to the i/maker . i would definatly check for that piercing valve if you have one, get rid of it right away and replace with a shut-off vale . you maay have to get a plumber in but believe me when i tell you it is worth it , chances are the fill tube froze up and got jammed with ice preventing water flow so you will have to clear it the other thing , if the gear doesnt move after jumpmimg it, then replace the i/maker head or the entire i/maker, what ever is best. let me know how you make out …good luck…john
OK. I’ll order an icemaker and post the result.
I live in Fort Wayne.