Hi, I’m new to the site. I have a 4 year old ge french door fridge. Last week the fan under the back stopped working, so I ordered a new fan for it. Still not working, so I call a repair guy. 123 bucks later the fan still doesn’t work and he claims I need a condenser fan, I say bull because I ordered the exact fan from the parts description. I pulled the cover off of the computer brain panel and nothing seems burnt. I don’t have a meter here but I’m going to get it tomorrow. The tech claimed there was voltage at the connector. Unfortunately I wasn’t home when the guy was here. My mother was, she explained I’m not a dummy. My father did commercial refrigeration for forty years. The guy was in his truck, as soon as he saw my dad he took off, neither one of my parents were impressed.
You probably have a bad motherboard AP4436216 These boards blow out easily whenever any fan motor goes bad. Make sure you use the new condensing motor when you replace the motherboard.
I checked the voltage, I have 12.44 VDC at two pins, one pin reads nill and one pin has nothing in the connector. Is the motherboard bad with these voltages or did I get a bum motor? It seems like the motor is defective, it’ll roll over slowly but it isn’t moving ant air.
It’s the condensor fan for clarification, the one next to the water/ice valve.
You probably have a two winding condenser motor. To confirm, check your schematic, behind the control panel, or behind the front kick panel. The schematic I have shows a common red wire and a white wire to one winding, and a yellow wire to the other. Set your meter to dc voltage. You must have voltage between the red wire and white one and the yellow wire and white wire. Sorry, I will later produce a schematic when I figure out how to scan and load my scribble schematic. Missing one voltage and the motor will not run. Both voltages should be around 12VDC
Also, I assume you put a box fan in the back to keep the fridg. running well.
Yes, I put a small fan back there to help cool everything down. I don’t want to go for a compressor. The fan I ordered is the exact replacement for the one originally installed. I’ll take the old one to work and megger it to see if it’s shorted. It has over 1kohms by my fluke.
I’m having the exact same problem. I’m getting about 13.5 V on both condenser fan connector pins (vs. white ground wire) when the compressor is running. Bought a new fan motor, and it didn’t work. Resistance values for new fan and old are pretty much identical.
If the controller board is putting out the right voltages and the fan motor(s) is(are) good, what else could be the problem?
For Frankiec, re-post with the correct model #
— Begin quote from frankiec;242795
I’m having the exact same problem. I’m getting about 13.5 V on both condenser fan connector pins (vs. white ground wire) when the compressor is running. Bought a new fan motor, and it didn’t work. Resistance values for new fan and old are pretty much identical.
If the controller board is putting out the right voltages and the fan motor(s) is(are) good, what else could be the problem?
— End quote
The refigerator model number is PDS22MCRBCC. The controller board model number is AP4436216 .
I believe for a two winding condenser motor, one winding gets a square wave, which in your case is missing. Therefor, you have a bad motherboard. Just make sure you use the new condensing motor when you replace the motherboard.
Thanks–that would explain it. Will order new controller board today.
GE rep came and put a new card in for free. I googled this model, they must know something is wrong with these. Another guy got one replaced for free, like i did. It cost me a new fan and a POS service guy from a local shop. I won’t use them again.
Thanks for the info. Just bought the controller board for $150 with shipping, but haven’t had a chance to swap it out yet.