Please help! Our side by side Kenmore refrigerator quit cooling and we traced the problem to a faulty relay or overload on the compressor. The fan ran all the time but the compressor would never kick in. It would hum and then click off without starting. Because of some extremely helpful info on this site (thanks!) we were able to test the resistance on the compressor and everything added up - there was a reading of 2, 9 and 11. Also, it was not grounded. So, that was good news. We weren’t sure at first because when we took the relay off a few days ago, it did not rattle and was not burned looking. However, a repairman said that it could still be a bad relay. Needless to say, we were relieved when the compressor checked out okay. Yesterday we went to an appliance parts store and the manufacturer parts were not in stock, so the man my husband talked to recommended a combination relay overload (MA-IC13 by MA-Line) that he said is very popular and he sells a lot of. However, when my husband got home and tried to put it on he ran into some problems because the part has 2 lines, but our refrigerator has 3 wires (blue to overload, black that was spliced and connected to overload and also to relay, and white to relay). As he is not an electrician, he just guessed and wired the the white wire and one side of the black wire to the relay overload and wired the other side of the black wire and the blue wire together. Well, after plugging in the fridge, the fan started running, but the compressor never even attempted to kick in. Today, my husband talked to the guy from the part store and he told him to just wire the blue and white wires to the relay overload and cap off the black wires. Well, now the compressor hums and clicks off, but the fan doesn’t run at all. Is there some way to get everything wired up properly so it will work again?? Is it even possible to use this part with our particular refrigerator? Even if we can get it working, is this okay to use long term or should this just be a temp fix until we can get the manufacturer parts in? Sorry this is so long, I just wanted to give all the details, so hopefully someone can help us. Thanks so much!!
What does the relay you bought look like? IF it has a tecumseh compressor in it the relay probably wont help but we can try But I dont know what you are trying to hook up
So…I did a little research and found out tecumseh compressors don’t have the best name. My question is this though, I tested the compressor with an ohmmeter like icehouse described in this thread (http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/13533-compressor-hot-fridge-freezer-not-cooling.html) and everything tested okay. No zero readings when checking for shorted compressor, no infinity readings when checking for open windings and no reading when testing for grounds. Could it still be a bad compressor even though all that checked out?
By the way, thanks again for your help. Living out of a mini fridge for nearly a week with 3 small children is less than thrilling, so it will be wonderful to get this figured out!
Well…my husband just wired it straight to an extension cord and the compressor buzzed and then clicked off. Does that mean it’s beyond help? Just out of curiosity, why would it have tested okay on the ohmmeter? Thanks so much, I really appreciate all your help.
The windings check ok but that doesn’t alweays mean its good How old is it? Those Trios all had the same issue with compressor.You can replace the compressor for about 500
It is about 8 years old. The repairman didn’t actually look at it. I called him and after describing the problem to him, he agreed that it was either a bad compressor or bad relay. I asked him if it could still be the relay even though it didn’t look or sound fried and he said yes, it could still be bad. He personally doesn’t even replace compressors anymore because of the cost involved. Told me it would probably be best to just replace the fridge if it did turn out to be the compressor… As we’re on a bit of a tight budget, we tried to figure it out ourselves. Are there any last resorts or is this pretty much it? If we can get it fixed for $500, that is less than a new one, but is it a good idea to spend that much on an 8 year old refrigerator?
Again, thanks guys for all your help, you’ve been more than great.
Yes and no. The government says that as long as it last ten years, that is satisfactory.
If you replace the compressor, ask about an extended warranty. 
Around these parts the best recommend by the majority of servicers "Amana"
Around here it’s LG or Samsung, in fact the frig you have now is an Amana lol but they aren’t using Tecumseh anymore The reason LG and Samsung is so popular is because they offer 7 years on the sealed system and not 1 year like Whirlpool Maytag and Sears
Serviced by "Rhin Moon Chun" :D:D:p
Have a Kenmore Elite, over and under, model 596.72283200 Fridge that stopped defrosting about two months ago. I cleaned the coils, vents and grills, tried resetting the ADC (Automatic Defrost Controller) controller by pressing the light switch 5 times within 6 seconds and totally defrosted the freezer with no improvement. Freezing up reoccurs within 7 to 10 days without fail. Then I ordered a new ADC control board, (Took me two hours to find that little freekin thing in the fridge!) replaced it and it’s still freezing up. The only thing I did differently is that after installing the ADC control board I removed the Ice maker as it isn’t used. My question is; if removing the ice maker would make the ADC board not work correctly and if not, what would be my next step? (consider me somewhat mechanically inclined. :D)
Date Of Purchessed 05/08,when I Tried To Push The Lead With The Cup Or The Glass To Get The Ice ,nothing Hapenned Usuly You Heard Little Noise And You Get The Ice Even The Light Arrond The Little Space For The Ice And The Water Is Not Working.i Am Thinking May Be Is The Fuse But Dont Know The Location Of Them.thx
mastafa tayeb said:
CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT S THE PROBLEME ABOUT THE ICE IS NOT COMING WHEN YOU PUSH THE HOLDER WITH THE CUP OR THE GLACE
HOW S THE DEFROST TMER LOOK A LIKE AND HOW TO CHANGE IT
Did the defrost heater ever turn on while you were doing the initial defrost? My guess based on your description is an open defrost terminator which is attached to the evaporator. You should be able to read continuity through it in a cold freezer. If it reads open, then that is likely the problem.
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